Cleats not sinking flush

Q: I’m having problems with cleats sinking flush to the bottom of the groove. I’m installing 3/4 oak prefinished flooring using 2-inch cleats, over 3/4×4 inch plank flooring. I also installed 1/4 inch plywood on top of planks. I turned my air pressure up to 160 and still was not able to get the cleats to sit flush. I also tried staples and the same problem. I tried hiring a few cleats into the subfloor and both times the cleat was flush to the subfloor. Using 15.5 gauge cleats.

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Finding it hard to match an existing floor thickness

Q imported from our old site, Face Lift Floors:  I am diligently trying to match an existing floor so I can add on to it. Unfortunately, the local flooring company is no longer in business so matching it has been very difficult. The flooring is 1/2″ thick.

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Pneumatic hardwood floor nailer leaving marks



Q: My pneumatic hardwood floor nailer sometimes leaves unsightly marks my prefinished hardwood when I am nailing it. Is there something I should put over the plate on the nailer that will prevent it from marking the hardwood?

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Buying a used bostitch air nailer



Q: I’m looking at buying a used Bostitch air nailer. Would it be better to buy one that shots staples or nails? Is there any advantage of one over the other?

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Cutting back the nosings



Q: I’ve taken carpet off stairs and am preparing to lay oak on treads and oak veneer on risers. I plan to leave spruce stringers and just repaint them. But I can see that when I cut back the existing nosings of about 1 3/8″ to be flush with riser there will be an ugly gap and rough edge of the existing nosing in the stringer where I cut the nosing back, which will not be fully covered by new solid oak nosing.

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Getting boards on the straight and narrow path



Q: I am installing some new 5/8″ hard wood floors, glue down over concrete. My home has a large floor plan and a large island in the kitchen, while meeting up around the island I noticed the 2 pieces had a slight gap. Unfortunately, I noticed this after the panel was down. I would like to rip down the existing piece to continue in a straight path, and sort of hide the mistake. Do you recommend I do this with a skill saw or router with a straight edge in place as a guide?

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Removing wood without ripping out kitchen?



Q: My hardwood floors were installed under the kitchen cabinets and have not held up well. I would like to remove them, and install ceramic tiles. How do you remove the old flooring without tearing out the kitchen cabinets?

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