Q imported from our old site, Face Lift Floors: I have a newly laid douglas fir floor. I would like to prevent the fir from oxidizing and turning orange. I have been told to use a water based polyurethane finish. I’m afraid that in a few years the wood will still turn orange. Do you know about bleaching the wood to prevent this change in color?
Q: I painted my BR floor and put polyurethane on it. It yellowed. I didn’t know that some finish yellows, what can I do?
Q: How do I get my semi-solid wooden floors to go back to their original colour?
Q: Regarding urethane for hardwood floors, I just finished reading your oil vs. water text. I think I am partial to oil. I have new, beautiful, truly brown walnut flooring that I do not want to yellow. I cannot get my hands on the Circa 1850 Bowling Alley urethane. Do you think that the yellowing or amber-color that happens with oil-based is from the yellow in the wood?
Q: After sanding down our 50-yr. old hardwood, we put 3 coats of poly on them and they turned out great. However, we decided we wanted to put the same hardwood in our kitchen. So we bought unfinished white oak, sanded it after installing, and then put 1 coat of poly on. It does not match the colour of the old hardwood which is much more orange.
Q: I recently bought a 115-year-old house, remodeled within the past 10 years, with wall to wall carpet. I ripped up the carpet on the second floor, with the intention on re-carpeting, only to find old 2 3/8″ wide strip pine floors in relatively decent condition. The carpet caused some yellow and oranging of the wood.
Q: What would happen if I wanted to sand all the way to bare wood, and then cover with a water base? Would I get some yellowing?