Q: I recently sanded the finish off of my hardwood floor (red oak). I did not take it down to the bare wood so the stain remained. I applied one coat of Masters Gloss Polyurethane. After 48 hours I sanded with 220 grit paper, cleaned it thoroughly and applied another coat of Masters Gloss Polyurethane. I waited 48 hours and sanded it with 320 grit paper, clean thoroughly and applied one coat of Masters Satan Polyurethane (well stirred). I loved the clean, clear look of the gloss but feel the satin is dull looking, almost fake.Continue reading Satin topcoat too dull looking
Q: Does poly finish become duller with time? My contractor did a patch in my oak floor and applied 3 coats of semi-gloss poly trying to match the old floor. The first two looked pretty good, but the 3rd (final) coat is really shiny. He claims that I just need to wait 30 days for it to fully cure and it will match. Does poly dull with time in this way?Continue reading Will my too shiny coat of polyurethane dull as it cures?
Q: Just had my kitchen floors refinished to match the rest of the house. Three coats of a 50/50 mix of satin and semi oil base poly was used. It did not come out shiny enough. He then did a coat of straight semi. It was put directly on without any sanding. Still not shiny enough. Continue reading Finish not shiny enough
Q: I just had my red/white oak hardwood floors stained with 2 coats of ebony/dark walnut. They are a really nice, dark, rick color. My floor guy uses Masterline poly in a satin finish. I am wanting little to no shine. I cannot find much information on this product. Is this a good product to use on really dark floors? Will there be any shine to their satin?
Q: We retained a flooring specialist to both refinish our circular stairs top and basement, and remove 2” old red oak floor throughout main floor and install 3 and 1/4 prefinished oak flooring, with a very flat satin finish. The stairs were carpeted so he installed oak treads and risers. We said from the beginning we wanted the floor and stairs to match. Continue reading Stairs don’t match newly installed hardwood floors in sheen
Q: In August we had our floors completely sanded, stained (Jacobean) and finished with Fabulon super satin (2 coats). It is an open floor plan with the hardwood laid on a diagonal and we get a lot of light exposure coming into the house. When we returned to our home after the 2nd coat was dried we noticed some uneven areas. Continue reading The number of coats of finish does NOT determine how shiny or dull the next coat will be
Q: I have 3 coats of satin water based poly, over 1 coat of stain, on red oak floors. The satin finish is too flat. Can I buff the floors with a 220 and apply a semigloss coat over the satin? Continue reading Can I buff the floors with a 220 and apply a semigloss coat over the satin?
Q: We are installing Pre-Finished Engineered Timber floor (Spotted Gum) in matte finish. But I really like the gloss finish look. Is it possible to polish the pre-finished floor boards again to get the gloss finish after installation? Any issues with applying a gloss polish on top of the existing matte finish? Continue reading Changing sheen of prefinished floor
Q: I just installed Brazilian cherry floors, which were sealed with Duraseal semi-gloss ployurethane by the floor guy. The painter then sealed the Brazilian cherry handrails and stair treads with Magnalac satin lacquer. I wanted the stairs to match the floor in terms of sheen. Continue reading Will putting semi-gloss over the satin really match things up?
Q: I installed and finished the floors (3/4′ Red oak T&G) in our new home, about 8 months ago. They really came out nice and it was a lot of fun! I used Minwax Satin Polyurethane for the finish and protection (no Stain). Anyway, I think that I would like to go to Semi-Gloss instead of the Satin. My question is- should I remove ALL the poly with a drum sander? Continue reading I would like to go to Semi-Gloss instead of the Satin