Q: We had taped (using green painters tape) Ram Board down onto oiled hardwood floors to do some drywall repairs. One area was taped down for 5 days and the one section for 3 hours. It didn’t matter 3 hours or 5 days, when we pulled the tape off it pulled a slight finish off the hardwood. so now there’s a faint whitish line where the tape was. And it’s not tape residue on the hardwood. The hardwood is White Oak, Smokey Mountain, the oil is Woca Oil.
Q: My floors seem to have spots along each side, in the seam between the boards.
Q: My red oak floors were sanded, stained and finished six months ago, in July. Immediately after, we noticed the cut-in around the baseboards in the kitchen and living room were shiny. Our contractor determined that one can of poly wasn’t appropriately stirred, so he reapplied the poly after buffing it down. (I believe it was buffed – perhaps sanded is the better term?)
Now, six months later, I found a board with poly peeling around the edges. As I inspected the rest of the areas, I noticed that the only areas where I see other potential problems of the poly peeling are in the rooms that were redone. Not all rooms in the house had this shiny cut-in problem.
Q: We just had our Brazilian cherry floors redone in several rooms, and new flooring in 2 others. We used the Arboritec elite ceramic finish. The day after it was complete, we noticed some flaking and the finish was soft enough to put a fingernail in it. What options do we have at this point, or does the entire job need to be redone? There are also milky patches and it’s an uneven looking finish.
Q: I purchased a home built in 1986. The floors are oak, but I am not sure if they are white or red. Before moving in, I wanted to have the floors freshened up.
I used a floor guy who was recommended to me by my realtor, and was told he had a very good reputation. Upon examining the floors, he determined that they were in very good shape, and said they should only need to be screened and recoated. He used Fabulon’s satin finish on the floors, and said he gave them two coats.
Q: This is our original floor (picture included). What do you think caused it to peel like this?
A: Well, it is happening on the edges of the boards. Was this a factory finished floor that has been sanded, stained and finished again? I can think of two things that can cause this. One is contaminants between the boards which react with the finish. I would more expect that to happen with very old floors, which this isn’t.
Q: We discovered under layers of vinyl that our 100 year old kitchen has a Douglas Fir floor. We had a floor man refinish with no stain, 3 coats of satin Bona varnish. The 3rd coat ‘bubbled’ in an area and so he came back to sand. He used paint thinner to eliminate any possible contaminates, then re-coated.
Q: I’ve been a wood floor guy since 1990. Owned the business since 1995. In my years I’ve seen it all, but here’s my issue – My client has a floor finished with poly and wanted a new top coat. He was informative and knew what the existing finish was and that it had never been cleaned with anything other than water with a little vinegar. I didn’t worry about any oil or another cleaner that leaves an incompatible residue. (I should have.)
Q: We recently had our red oak flooring sanded and finished. I installed new in three rooms. The dining room and foyer was installed 25 years ago when we built our home. The person we hired claimed 20 years of experience. After all was done and we came back home we were disappointed with his work. The old flooring had dark and light patches. The perimeter of the room was darker than the field.
Q: We need your help. We bought a new house in September 2016 and had the floors refinished before moving in. The floors were in different conditions around the house. The first floor was stained dark, the second floor was blonde (probably the original finish since it was previously carpeted) and the kitchen was pre-finished wood according to my contractor and the floor guy.