Flexible clear coating other than polyurethane

Q: I’m restoring a 120 year old barn that has 1×12 rough cut CVG floors. I’m repurposing it for a wood shop and office. I plan on sanding then sealing the planks with a clear, heavy sealer so it looks like a gym floor. Should I use polyurethane or would you recommend something else?

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What type of finish do you recommend?

Q: I am going to try your advice and sand and finish a few of my 6″ pine floor boards (the whole board) in a few areas where the finish has worn through and then buff and recoat the rest of the floor. When you suggest applying a thin layer of finish and removing the tape quickly, what type of finish do you recommend?

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Best finish for Douglas fir

Q: We milled second growth Douglas fir in 2016. We are sorting through the pile of full dimension 1×6, to send 2000 away for kiln drying, planing, and t&g’ing for flooring. It is not all edge grain, but a mix of edge and face. We’re wondering about a finish.

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Wood floor finish for a house on stilts

Q: We had a new white oak floor installed and used a Minwax stain that was tinted with white pigment (Sherwin Williams). The installer waited 48 hours after applying the stain. The house is on the water on stilts and heated, set at 60 degrees. He then applied 3 coats of Bona Traffic HD, buffing between coats.

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Lighter look or deeper colour



Q: I have pine floors from the 30’s. I had them professionally refinished two times in the past. There is no stain and the poly wears away quickly. I recently sanded one room myself and applied oil based poly. It came out darker where I sanded one area more than the rest due to scratches and wear in that area.

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Drying problems with the oil based poly



Q: After using B**** Coatings oil poly for years on floors without problems I was forced to return to D******* oil. Recently, I am experiencing drying problems with the oil based poly, in which I have cause to blame the company for changing the formula (to meet upcoming standards).

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