Q: I am going to try your advice and sand and finish a few of my 6″ pine floor boards (the whole board) in a few areas where the finish has worn through and then buff and recoat the rest of the floor. When you suggest applying a thin layer of finish and removing the tape quickly, what type of finish do you recommend?
Q: We milled second growth Douglas fir in 2016. We are sorting through the pile of full dimension 1×6, to send 2000 away for kiln drying, planing, and t&g’ing for flooring. It is not all edge grain, but a mix of edge and face. We’re wondering about a finish.
Q: We had a new white oak floor installed and used a Minwax stain that was tinted with white pigment (Sherwin Williams). The installer waited 48 hours after applying the stain. The house is on the water on stilts and heated, set at 60 degrees. He then applied 3 coats of Bona Traffic HD, buffing between coats.
Q: I sanded old finish off my wood floors, then put a oil base stain on, and then put a water base urethane on. I lightly sanded the floor next day and put a second coat of poly on. Now I have a few spots flaking.
Q: I have pine floors from the 30’s. I had them professionally refinished two times in the past. There is no stain and the poly wears away quickly. I recently sanded one room myself and applied oil based poly. It came out darker where I sanded one area more than the rest due to scratches and wear in that area.
Q imported from our old site, Face Lift Floors: We have sanded and stained our oak wood floors. We have put on 2 coats of water-based polyurethane. The floor still feels rough. How do you get that hard smooth finish?
Q: Can oil modified urethane be used to recoat over Swedish (Glitsa) finishes?
Q: I am sanding down a 30 year old parquet floor. What should I put on it once I have sanded it down? Do I seal it with a matte varnish, or should I oil it? What is the usual finish?
Q: After using B**** Coatings oil poly for years on floors without problems I was forced to return to D******* oil. Recently, I am experiencing drying problems with the oil based poly, in which I have cause to blame the company for changing the formula (to meet upcoming standards).
Q: We have 150 year old red oak floors with several coats of Zinsser Target clear epoxy based finish on them. We have been unable to find the same product and are thinking of using an oil based polyurethane over the existing finish.