Flexible clear coating other than polyurethane

Q: I’m restoring a 120 year old barn that has 1×12 rough cut CVG floors. I’m repurposing it for a wood shop and office. I plan on sanding then sealing the planks with a clear, heavy sealer so it looks like a gym floor. Should I use polyurethane or would you recommend something else?

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Fish eye bubbles and sanding sealer on top of polyurethane as a fix

Q: Please help. We hired a floor refinisher with over 30 years of experience to refinish our 24 year old red oak floors. He is having one problem after another with the finish which is an oil based polyurethane satin finish. He has put on 3 or 4 coats of poly in some rooms and he keeps getting fish eyes, cloudy spots, etc. and debris in the finish.

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Can’t recoat over existing poly unless fully sanded down?

Q: I just bought a house and I’m trying to get it move-in ready. The oak floors are currently stained with an oil based poly coating in a satin/semi gloss finish. I want to try and re-coat (buff the existing poly and apply new coat) in a matte finish for a more natural look. I’m looking for the right product and process to achieve the matte finish.

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Stepped in wet finish and left a sneaker print

Q: I completely sanded and stained by living room floor. I then laid down one coat of polyurethane and surprisingly, as I am a first timer, it looked great. I put a second coat on, but then I accidently stepped on a couple of wet areas with my sneakers. I tried to roll it out and thought I did. But after it dried I could see the sneaker print.

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Correcting spots where stain and poly have completely worn off

Q: Six years ago in an entire home remodel we matched our existing 1949 Red Oak flooring and had it installed throughout house seamlessly. We stained the oak with Dura seal to even out dark staining from the decades of use and spills. There were 4 coats of poly used to seal. Now we have a few spots where the stain was never “correct”. The poly and stain are completely worn thru and back to natural.

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Should 1/16 inch gaps between boards be filled with wood filler?

Q: I have a newly unfinished ash wood floor with 4 1/4 planks. I want to use a water based polyurethane finish – 2 coats of sealer and 2 of finish. In the winter there are small (1/16th”) gaps between some of the boards when the heat is on. Should I use a full trowel filler, water based wood filler? With 4 coats of sealer on it, will the filler pop out in the summer when the humidity goes up?

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What type of finish do you recommend?

Q: I am going to try your advice and sand and finish a few of my 6″ pine floor boards (the whole board) in a few areas where the finish has worn through and then buff and recoat the rest of the floor. When you suggest applying a thin layer of finish and removing the tape quickly, what type of finish do you recommend?

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Best finish for Douglas fir

Q: We milled second growth Douglas fir in 2016. We are sorting through the pile of full dimension 1×6, to send 2000 away for kiln drying, planing, and t&g’ing for flooring. It is not all edge grain, but a mix of edge and face. We’re wondering about a finish.

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