Should 1/16 inch gaps between boards be filled with wood filler?

Q: I have a newly unfinished ash wood floor with 4 1/4 planks. I want to use a water based polyurethane finish – 2 coats of sealer and 2 of finish. In the winter there are small (1/16th”) gaps between some of the boards when the heat is on. Should I use a full trowel filler, water based wood filler? With 4 coats of sealer on it, will the filler pop out in the summer when the humidity goes up?

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What type of finish do you recommend?

Q: I am going to try your advice and sand and finish a few of my 6″ pine floor boards (the whole board) in a few areas where the finish has worn through and then buff and recoat the rest of the floor. When you suggest applying a thin layer of finish and removing the tape quickly, what type of finish do you recommend?

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Best finish for Douglas fir

Q: We milled second growth Douglas fir in 2016. We are sorting through the pile of full dimension 1×6, to send 2000 away for kiln drying, planing, and t&g’ing for flooring. It is not all edge grain, but a mix of edge and face. We’re wondering about a finish.

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Linseed oil as a blocker

Q: Is it wise to wipe the freshly sanded hardwood floors down with linseed oil before the polyurethane? The floors had a lot of stains and several different chemicals were used to remove them. I was told by using linseed oil that would seal the wood so there would not be any chemical reaction with the polyurethane Is this the solution to do?

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Satin topcoat too dull looking

Q: I recently sanded the finish off of my hardwood floor (red oak). I did not take it down to the bare wood so the stain remained. I applied one coat of Masters Gloss Polyurethane. After 48 hours I sanded with 220 grit paper, cleaned it thoroughly and applied another coat of Masters Gloss Polyurethane. I waited 48 hours and sanded it with 320 grit paper, clean thoroughly and applied one coat of Masters Satan Polyurethane (well stirred). I loved the clean, clear look of the gloss but feel the satin is dull looking, almost fake.

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Green painters tape left whitish line on floors

Q: We had taped (using green painters tape) Ram Board down onto oiled hardwood floors to do some drywall repairs. One area was taped down for 5 days and the one section for 3 hours. It didn’t matter 3 hours or 5 days, when we pulled the tape off it pulled a slight finish off the hardwood. so now there’s a faint whitish line where the tape was. And it’s not tape residue on the hardwood. The hardwood is White Oak, Smokey Mountain, the oil is Woca Oil.

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If the sealer is cured before I abrade will the sealer still retain its tooth?

Q: 1500 SF, 2 Coats of Poloplaz fast dry sealer down on stained Hickory. Licensed floor refinisher did not clean the stained floor, so the sealer is full of grit and some hairs. I need to abrade this floor now by hand because the floor is not flat. Tried 17″ rotary but it hits high places and damages the stain below, to raw wood in some places.

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Will 120 grit close the grain and make the finish blotchy?

Q: I have recovered douglas fir floors from carpet and linoleum, scraping the mastic off with a diamabrush/buffer. So far so good. My sanding plan is to use the buffer machine and 60/80/100/120 discs. Then finish sand with an oscillator at 120 to get out the large swirl marks. Do you think this will ‘close the grain’ so the oil finish will be blotchy?

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