Green painters tape left whitish line on floors

Q: We had taped (using green painters tape) Ram Board down onto oiled hardwood floors to do some drywall repairs. One area was taped down for 5 days and the one section for 3 hours. It didn’t matter 3 hours or 5 days, when we pulled the tape off it pulled a slight finish off the hardwood. so now there’s a faint whitish line where the tape was. And it’s not tape residue on the hardwood. The hardwood is White Oak, Smokey Mountain, the oil is Woca Oil.

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If the sealer is cured before I abrade will the sealer still retain its tooth?

Q: 1500 SF, 2 Coats of Poloplaz fast dry sealer down on stained Hickory. Licensed floor refinisher did not clean the stained floor, so the sealer is full of grit and some hairs. I need to abrade this floor now by hand because the floor is not flat. Tried 17″ rotary but it hits high places and damages the stain below, to raw wood in some places.

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Will 120 grit close the grain and make the finish blotchy?

Q: I have recovered douglas fir floors from carpet and linoleum, scraping the mastic off with a diamabrush/buffer. So far so good. My sanding plan is to use the buffer machine and 60/80/100/120 discs. Then finish sand with an oscillator at 120 to get out the large swirl marks. Do you think this will ‘close the grain’ so the oil finish will be blotchy?

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How many coats of finish for a pine floor

Q: We had our pine floors sanded and they put a coat of polyurethane on and are coming back tomorrow to put the final coat on. Is this enough? Now I am reading everywhere that at least 3 coats should go on. Are we getting ripped off?

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Sander marks noticed after stain job

Q: I just had my hall, lounge, and dining room floorboards repaired, sanded and stained. They were in a bad way, with broken boards and gauges, which were all filled or replaced. The job looked like it was being done well.

However, now that it is stained and finished I have noticed areas at the edge where they missed sander marks. And the hall boards are still undulating, highest in the middle of boards.

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Polyurethane peeling around redone areas

Q: My red oak floors were sanded, stained and finished six months ago, in July. Immediately after, we noticed the cut-in around the baseboards in the kitchen and living room were shiny. Our contractor determined that one can of poly wasn’t appropriately stirred, so he reapplied the poly after buffing it down. (I believe it was buffed – perhaps sanded is the better term?)

Now, six months later, I found a board with poly peeling around the edges. As I inspected the rest of the areas, I noticed that the only areas where I see other potential problems of the poly peeling are in the rooms that were redone. Not all rooms in the house had this shiny cut-in problem.

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Beware the fly by night “contractor”

Q: We recently hired someone to do our floors and now a problem has come up and his phone is disconnected! Here is what he did: 1) Sanded floors with a large sander. 2) Stained floors with a roller (similar to painting walls), never wiped up with a rag. He said when u roll it on you don’t need to. 3) Applied 5 coats of polyurethane, 2 low gloss, and 3 high gloss, he said it was better with kids and pets.

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Removed cabinets in kitchen and found unfinished flooring



Q imported from our old site, Face Lift Floors: I recently bought an apt. which has shiny wood floors throughout. I removed some cabinets from the kitchen area and underneath was unfinished wood. I sanded down the area, but am unsure how to proceed as I don’t know what was done to the floor previously.

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Preventing douglas fir from oxidizing and turning orange



Q imported from our old site, Face Lift Floors: I have a newly laid douglas fir floor. I would like to prevent the fir from oxidizing and turning orange. I have been told to use a water based polyurethane finish. I’m afraid that in a few years the wood will still turn orange. Do you know about bleaching the wood to prevent this change in color?

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