Q: I need 9″x9″ unfinished red oak parquet with tongue and groove for installation. Where can I locate it?Continue reading ISO 9″x9″ unfinished red oak parquet with tongue and groove
Q: I stained a floor then a contractor came in and worked in the house. He thought it was sealed but it wasn’t. How can I clean it up enough to seal it?Continue reading Cleaning a floor between staining and finishing
Q: How do I know what kind of wood my floors are? All rooms look different in 100+ yr home.Continue reading What kind of wood is my floor
Q imported from our old site, Face Lift Floors: I recently installed a plywood subfloor over a slab. There is a cement “lip” bordering the entire room which is uneven and ranges from 1″ to 3″ in different spots. It is impossible to make the plywood meet this lip all the way around the room. Continue reading Uneven cement “lip” bordering the entire room we want to install laminate in
Q imported from our old site, Face Lift Floors: If I may ask one more question. Isn’t it a bad idea, in general, to screw or nail down a floating laminate floor? Doesn’t this defeat the engineered purpose of a floating floor? Continue reading Bad idea to screw or nail down part of a floating laminate floor?
Q imported from our old site, Face Lift Floors: I recently had someone come to my condo to replace a section of my laminate flooring. Once the work was done it became obvious that the new flooring was about two or three shades lighter than the old. Is there any way to darken the new flooring without replacing it?
A: As you indicate, the “patch” repair that was done is significantly lighter than the original floor. I have a couple of questions. Did they use the same product to match your floor? Is this a real wood laminate or a “countertop” type of surface with a wood-look “picture”? If it is the same product and is real wood, then perhaps just letting exposer to sunlight do the job will be all that is required.
If they did not use the same product, and this is a wood laminate with a real wood surface that is thick enough to be sanded and finished, then you could likely get an exact color match done at a good paint store, such as Cook’s Paint and Wallpaper on Danforth Ave., and have the area carefully sanded and finished to match the existing. You likely won’t get an exact match, but close enough that the spot does not jump out at you.
Original / moved link https://faceliftfloors.com/q-and-a/lamshade.php
Q imported from our old site, Face Lift Floors: We put laminate snap together flooring throughout the entire 3200 sq. ft. house. The house is only a year old. There are several areas that have huge air bubbles under the floor. How do I get the floor to lay flat? Some doors won’t even open unless I stand on the bubble while pulling the door open. It is happening all over the house now. Continue reading Air bubbles spreading under laminate floor
Q: I have had trouble with a flooring company. They pushed to do a job quickly, said it could be done in two sections in two days. Now I have two different colors or sheens on my flooring. I told them I wanted satin finish. They used Absco Grandgray label which is semi gloss. They said it will be a satin finish.Continue reading Different sheen room to room
Q: Hoping for some advice based on your experience. Here are the details – New floor, 7 1/4″ engineered Fumed White Oak (no bevel), nailed and glued. Professionals were hired although their experience with oil polyurethane was limited. They finished with ****** Poly 500 matte (we specified the finish as the matte with 8-10 luster rating was desired).Continue reading Third coat is messy