Q imported from our old site, Face Lift Floors: My maple wood floor has developed a hump in the middle. It does it every year but a humid summer has made it a real hazard this year. Is this due to initially poor fitting, not leaving enough room for expansion? How can I fix the floor?
Q: We have a 1930s colonial revival home. Upstairs, in the bedrooms, we have what I believe are Douglas Fir wood floors. Two rooms were Previously finished when we bought the home. We are now in the process of removing the carpet in the other two. The floor appears to be in good shape, but still has a thin layer of wax finish on it and is otherwise rather raw. I am really leaning on cleaning them up, lightly sanding and rewaxing them. I’m drawn to the easy repairs and the ease of application, but mostly to the natural softness wax floors offer.
Q: Why does my new red oak flooring differ so much from my existing red oak flooring? I recently replaced my tile runway and tiled kitchen with red oak to match my existing red oak wood floor that runs parallel. Now it’s all wood, but looks completely different.
Q: I am in the process of choosing a new unfinished floor. My question is, if I choose a floor that is distressed with saw cut swirls in it will the wood eventually become rough and catch your socks?
Q: Is the presence of multiple wormholes acceptable in #1 common red oak hardwood flooring (up to 39 holes in one 47” plank)?
A: It is a lower grade of wood. The lower the grade, the
Q: I have boxes of both Bellawood Ash and Short Leaf Acacia, both 3/4″ prefinished hardwood. The ash, from the US, has virtually no aroma. The acacia, an exotic hardwood, prefinished in China, has a strong aroma which I am attempting to vent. What is the aroma? Could it be just the wood scent, the poly, the aluminum oxide? Or something else?
Q: I am going to put hard wood in my entrance way and kitchen. I do not like the grain in oak. I do like walnut. Will it be durable enough for a hallway and kitchen?
Q: Is there any reason I should expect (or accept) a floor that’s been installed (HW oak prefinished) with dings so that it needs to be filled in and stained by myself? Also it has a micro-bevelled edges and I see pieces that do not line up (or fit correctly). One of the pieces I’ve found so far has a three-inch slice missing along the fitting and you can see the subfloor.
Q: We recently had some remodeling done in a house that we just bought. The entire house has beautiful wood floors with walnut inlays dating from the late 30’s. In building the master suite, some new wood was needed to cover areas that had been carpeted in a previously-built addition. The color does not match very well, and the contractor simply claims to be surprised that it did not work out as well as he planned.
Q: We had a hickory hardwood floor put in our living room, dining room and kitchen, on the main level of our house. We have a finished basement and the humidity is 46%. It was installed in September by the flooring contractor in one day and started showing splits and cracks in 5-6 boards. They repaired a few of the boards by replacing them. A few days later and one of those boards in the kitchen now sits slightly lower on one side along its length.