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Q: We have manufactured hardwood floors, and the previous owners did a shoddy job of refinishing them by slapping down polyurethane on top of the original coating of the manufactured wood.
Q: Can humidity in subfloor cause overwood? Or is it installation issues? I have several examples in my newly installed floor, plus several cracked boards. Some of the tongues at install were observed to be severely fractured, with multiple staples piled on top of each other. Also, the incorrect fasteners may have been used.
The contractor is blaming subfloor/basement humidity (floor is on first level above the basement), but I think it is a bad installation.
Q: I got a quote to have LVP installed for a $1.50 a square foot, I’m curious is the price going to raise when install gets to the more complex area like bathrooms, door way jambs, kitchen, pantry, small closets, etc.?
Q: From May 21, 2018 question – local builder who did our stain job on stairwell saying they did a good job. Stain has chipped all over the first year (only socked feet walk on) and original stained tried to do “touch ups” but the painters tape that he put down is now pulling off huge chunks of stain.
I’ve seen some other sites that say never use painters tape on stained wood. I think, like you said, if done properly it should not pull it off.
Q: I am sanding a wood floor and I’m between coats. I’m before applying the third and last coat of oil based polyurethane. If there are a few spots that remain shiny even after using 320 grit sandpaper, is that okay?
Q: Would it be okay to install a large rubber stair nose of 1 7/8 on a tread that is 1 1/2? The other option would be 1 3/8 molding, and I would have to paint the nose black before installing black rubber.
Q: This isn’t so much a flooring question, but you clearly have a history with wood, stains, etc. The owner of a building in my area is doing renovations. The old wood beams (I believe to be pine or cedar) have handprints forming on them. They have not yet been worked on or restored.
Q: I have 7 inch hardwood floors with very large gaps and uneven edges. The floor is also very wavy and has staples popping up all over. The home is 8 months old and the builder is telling me (although his team looked at it and said “Oh wow, that’s not good”) that according to the manufacture the gaps can be 7 times wider then “normal”. I don’t believe him at all and I don’t know what to do from here.
Q: I applied 2 coats of water based sealer and finish on an unfinished ash floor. I’m not happy with the results and want to use oil based finish instead. I bought Zar semi gloss. Is there a certain length of time I need to wait before applying the oil based polyurethane?