Q: We have 2 coats of Swedish finish on our oak floor, still in great condition after 5 years of good care. We are downsizing a kitchen island and thus will be exposing an area around each side of the island by about 12″. The floor which will be exposed was sanded, but never finished. I would like to know what I can apply to the unfinished boards that will look compatible to what I have already.
The Swedish sheen is soft, but not extremely shiny, and you can easily see the wood grain. I do understand that the newly exposed wood will be different in color, but wonder what product and method of application could be used to tie these boards together? Is there a water based product that we could use which would blend with the Swedish finished area?
A: I haven’t used Swedish finishes (aka acid cure) since the mid 1980’s because they are extremely noxious. However they are designed to be non yellowing, so a water borne would probably be you best choice. You could use a finish such as Poloplaz 202. However, if the present coating has darkened up somewhat, perhaps a product such as Poloplaz Prism might work better. It will amber slightly.
Is Swedish finish for hardwood floors toxic? 3 Answers
My builder's wonderful flooring company installed red oak hardwood floors on the whole main floor of our house and now I hear that Europe banned the Swedish finish used on our floors almost 20 years ago. I need to know how toxic these floors are and is there a finish…
Swedish finish non-yellowing?
We want a non-yellowing non-glossy finish for our hardwood floors that will keep the wood's natural colour as best as possible. What is the difference between our two choices "Swedish finish" and water-soluble?
Swedish finish smell two months later
Q: I have a Swedish finished hardwood floor. It's been almost two months since it was finished, but it still smells if we close the windows. It's not so bad that the Swedish finish smell is burning ours eyes or throat. The product used to finish is Berger Seidle (or Gerber…
Oil or water to match
We just had the floors redone using an oil based polyurethane and I'm trying to get the stairs to match. The problem is the stairs were originally done with a water based polyurethane. Do I need to completely sand down the floors or can I apply the oil based polyurethane…
Orange spots and water borne finish
Q: I put down water base on an oak floor. It turned orange near the cabinets and near a spot where I re sanded a dent from the fridge (a 1x1 square). Will the orange spots go away after the final coat? Or is it doing this because I hand…