Q: I bought what is considered an “exotic wood” prefinished 3″ Bolivian rosewood, a ***** product. How can I make my own transitions and specialty pieces such as the top stair. Can I make these myself from planks and refinish any sanded edges?
I think if I have to buy them, they might be special order if at all, which might be time and lots of money.
A: Beveled reducers can be made on a table saw easy enough. Mind you, if you are not experienced, it may cost you a few fingers or more. You have to set the blade angle at about 20 degrees and set up your fence, then run the board through on edge. As far as stair nosings, you really have to find one pre made, since your floor is not thick enough to make one. Or get a close match. What does the company say that manufactured this product? Do they not also carry transitions strips?
I will be installing 3/4" flooring onto slab. The wood flooring will abut another room that has tile. The 3/4" CDX subfloor, and papers, will roughly create a difference 1 inch to 1 1/4 inches higher than my tile. What kind of transition techniques do you recommend? The height difference…
Horizontal hardwood transition
I want to put hardwood flooring in my dining room and living room. The flooring will run horizontal to the opening between the 2 rooms. I was wondering how you go from one room to the other, and if there were any tricks to making the transition?
Height difference and base molding
Q: Our kitchen and family room share a wall. We installed stone flooring in the kitchen and pergo flooring in the family room. As a result, the kitchen floors are slightly higher. We placed a transition on the ground to cover up the difference in height, but now we are…
Choosing the right kind of bullnose
We have recently installed laminate on our main floor. We are at a standstill however, as we are not sure what to do with the bullnose. Our stairs leading to the basement are carpeted, but I do not know if I have the right kind of bullnose. Are there different…
Transition and height difference
The flooring we are installing doesn't offer a reducer, so I'm trying to plan how to treat the transition. One idea is to pull up the sub floor and install so both floors are flush (and use T-Moulding). Would I be stupid to attempt this especially since the 5/8 seems…
Knocking down walls
We are knocking out walls between our livingroom, dining room and kitchen. The livingroom and kitchen are oak. The kitchen is Douglas Fir. Should we keep all and refinish them? How do we transition them? (It's a long, straight shot from the front door to the back kitchen door.)