Q: We moved into our new house about a year ago, and we are now ready to stain the oak stairs. We thought they were “conditioned” only, but now found out that they are “sealed”. I don’t think a top coat such as a polyurethane has been applied. What would be the best procedure to prep the stairs for staining? We want a dark brownish/black colour. Continue reading Staining oak stairs dark
Q: I have ripped up the carpet on my stairs, and I am going to paint them and install a runner. The risers are in poor shape and I am hoping I can use a thin piece of oak to fix that. How do I cut the overhang of the treads to make them flush with the riser below? There is no room for a straight cut. What tool do I need? Continue reading How do I cut treads overhang to make them flush with risers?
Q: I had a professional floorer install a natural oak (2 1/4″ engineered hardwood) in my living area and two sets of stairs. My question is – The stairs are installed with a lip at the very end of the tread (the thickness of the engineered wood, which was glued together at a 45 degree to make the stair noses). The installer told me that we could not cut the ends (overlap) of the stair tread off (it’s a 8″ x 12′ cut to the width of the stair treads with about 1.5 – 1.75″ overhang on each tread) due to rise and run codes for stairways. Continue reading Painful lip on stair treads
Q: I have oak parquet in living/dining and kitchen, and oak stair treads and handrail. Everything is stained dark ebony. I want to refinish, and would like to have a lighter, taupe/grey, high-gloss look. Continue reading Would re-doing the stairs and handrail be prohibitively expensive?
Q: I’m removing the banister in the hall way to install laminate flooring. I understand that we have to leave a gap around the banister. What do we use to cover the gap? Quarter round? Continue reading Leave a gap around the banister?
Q: I ripped up carpet in a balcony/hallway and am installing 3/4″ hardwood. Issue #1 – The top of existing stair bullnose is about 3/16″ lower than where the top of the new hardwood will be. How do I make this a smooth transition? Continue reading Smooth transition between stair bullnose and new hardwood
Q: How do I deal with stair spindles while trying to install laminate or wood flooring on the stairs to my second floor? Assuming I remove the spindles, how do I fit the wood or laminate so that the spindles can be replaced? Continue reading Stair spindles and installing flooring on the stairs
Q: Can I stain a pine riser to match my oak step? Continue reading Can I stain a pine riser to match my oak step?
Q: I plan on installing laminate wood flooring on a stair landing and a couple of stairs. My question has to do with the stair nosing. My steps are about 47-1/2″ wide. Most pre-made nosings I’ve seen come in 47″ or 94″ long pieces. As you can see, I will either have to splice the nosings or have a ton of waste. Is it OK to splice laminate stair nosing? I understand it has to glued down and also nailed. Continue reading Stair nosing in more than one piece?
Q: I am installing tongue and groove engineered hardwood floors into my living room and dining room. From the dining room to the living room, I have three 6 feet long steps. The floor is being laid perpendicular to the steps. What do you think is the best way to handle the tongue and groove while connecting to the stair nose and still cutting my pieces to fit the length of the dining room? Continue reading Have to interlock floor and stair nose?