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However, the problem is, the finish is “chipping” off. There are scratches, yes, but they just look like regular scratches, and then there are spots where the finish has chipped off, and the wood is the same pale color it was the day I put it in, instead of the dark orange I stained it. These are actually shaped like chips you would see in fingernail polish, etc. Unfortunately, they are all over the whole floor.

Is there a way to darken oak flooring that has been refinished, possibly a dark wax or a colored shellac? I would like to obtain a color similar to my fir doors and windows.

We have oak floors and we’re having them stained, however, the stain is very uneven in color. We are using a very dark wiping stain. It’s almost like you can see areas where the sander stopped and started. The floors have now been sanded out twice and re-stained twice. The second staining was even worse. There are a lot of “lite” blotchy areas throughout the floor. Some areas are dark (which we wanted) and some are light. The finisher does not use a vacuum. Does this matter?

Is there something I can do to make staining a hard wood with a dark stain easier? It takes me so many applications to reach the desired darkness. I used Special Walnut (very dark oil stain) on both maple and cherry, and it takes so many applications.

I just had my pre-finished red oak floor refinished with what should be the same color (gunstock) and 3 coats of oil-based poly. The wood grain is so much more noticeable than it was in pre-finished form, and I don’t like it as much. Will this difference fade some over time and will the ambering of the poly affect it? My installer says in 2-3 months the grain will not look as dark. Thank you for your response.

I just hired a local wood flooring company to refinish the entire first floor of my house this past April. Since that time the polyurethane has seeped out from between the boards and formed small globs or crystals of poly that are now stuck on the floor. Every room that was done shows evidence of this problem….

My husband took on the task of refinishing our wood floors. However, when he applied the stain, it was uneven and blotchy. Do you have any suggestions in correcting this problem?

We just had the hardwood floors in our house refinished. After sanding the floors, the contractor applied the stain to the floors. However, we now have multiple stain spots on the walls (at different levels on the walls and not just at ground level) in those rooms. Is it expected that you will have stain on the walls and that you will have to repaint those walls after the contractor completes the refinishing job? Or, should the contractor have put up some sort of protective covering along the walls to protect the walls from splatter during the application of the stain to the floors? The contractor is telling us that having the splatter on the walls is expected and that we should have known that we would have to have the rooms repainted after he was done with the floors.

We have stained our hardwood floors and really did a terrible job. Is there a way to correct this? Is it possible to remove the stain?

We are installing a new hardwood floor, and chose a dark stain on birch. We’ve snapped a few pieces together to see how it looks and noticed that the edges are not as darkly stained (like the bevelled edges didn’t take the stain as well as the top of the wood). Our room is very large with lots of light. We’re concerned that we may have light lines running all around the room. Is this common with dark stains on light wood?

I’m installing 6″ red pine (unfinished) tongue and groove in my cottage and my installer is suggesting that he won’t need to sand the floor, prior to staining, if the boards are level. Is this true? What about milling marks on the boards etc.? We’d like the floor stained a medium to dark brown and have a low luster tung-oil looking finish AND I’d like a fast drying, low odour approach. Can the stain and oil finish be mixed together in one application?

I recently stained my floors in sections. Red oak floors with ****** Red oak stain. I applied with a sponge and blended with a china brush. I did NOT wipe it off. I can see the lap marks where the stain overlapped. I have not applied the poly yet. Is there a fix for this?

I just had natural red oak floors installed in my home. The stair nose color/shade (it is connected to the dinning room wood floor) does not look good next to it. The color of the stair nose looks more like a light tan colored wood, not like a red oak and it does not nearly have the beautiful shine the prefinished flooring has. The company just added a water based tinted polyurethane coat to help the color of the stair nose but I still do not like it and it did not help the color very much . I feel that all the poly has to be sanded off and a stain applied directly to the stair nose to help match the wood that it is next to. What do you think?

Q: After sanding down our 50-yr. old hardwood, we put 3 coats of poly on them and they turned out great. However, we decided we wanted to put the same hardwood in our kitchen. So we bought unfinished white oak, sanded it after installing, and then put 1 coat of poly on. It does not match the colour of the old hardwood which is much more orange. Some people have said to put a 3-6 inch “border” in between the 2 such as staining a strip a darker colour in order to separate the differences. Would you recommend trying to stain the new wood a completely different colour?

I just had my hardwood floors redone professionally and the stain came out too light and too red (we did tests but for some reason the floor came out differently). Is there any way to darken the floors and/or get them to be a darker brown without totally redoing them?

I recently removed 30 year old carpet from hardwood floors. I discovered some spots that were dark black (I am guessing pet stains). I applied hydrogen peroxide to them and after a few treatments, the black stains lifted and the wood was left white. I chemically stripped a 3 X 1 rectangle around the white spots so that application of stain would be even and not spotty. My problem is that the white spots in the wood are now not taking the stain as dark as the chemically stripped areas. Is there anything I can do?

After returning the stain to the stores, the store manager shook, stirred all the cans of stain (in our colour) along with the remaining cans, and we discovered that each can varies dramatically from a brown yellow cast, red cast and orange cast. Is it possible for me to remove the stain in the orange areas without re-sanding the floors? I have tried mineral sprits but this is not working.

Would it be easier to stain a new pine floor before it is laid? If this is the case, could we go ahead and give one coat of finish? The last part of my question is, would we have to stain the ends of the boards when we cut them for installation?

I currently have carpet in my living room and hardwood flooring in my kitchen as well as my nook. These areas are connected. What I want to do is take the carpet out of my great room and put hardwood flooring. I would like it to look like it was done at the same time. Is this possible?

I just had my hundred year old oak floors sanded, stained and polyed by my contractor. He cut the floors, which are either 12″x12″ square parquet or 2″ long planks, with a rented belt sander and used a hand held edger. The floors looked normal once sanded, with some scratches here and there, but good for their age. They looked normal after the stain as well, but once the ploy went down thin ridges appeared up and down the majority of the floors. Are these marks from the sander? Can the poly be buffed and screened or do we need to start over and use a finer grit to solve the problem? Also, on the new pine planks in another room, the poly appears scuffed and the stain appears noticeably lighter along two of the four walls.