WoodFlooringGuy.com

y house is warm, but knowing heat rises and the floors are still cold, would it be best to wait for a warmer day before applying stain and polyurethane?

We stained our hardwood floors in the living room. The can of stain said it takes 24 hours to dry. It has been 3 days now and our floors feel sticky. How do we fix this?

We are refinishing our fir floors. We have used a dark stain called jacobean. The color looks great. Now we have put a satin polyurethane on, and it has appeared to make the tone more of a red color.

I recently sanded my Red Oak floors and prepared them for staining. They looked amazing before the stain hit the deck. I applied DuraSeal Medium Brown with a Lambswool applicator, following the instructions from the container. I did about a 10 sq. ft., waited about 6 min., and tried to wipe off the excess. Every time I wiped (again with the lambswool applicator), I got a dark stain line where the applicator first/last touched the floor.

I’m torn between going dark or staying with a natural color on my parquet floors, 700 sq. ft. 1 bedroom apt. The apartment faces North and West so it gets good afternoon light, but I’m worried dark floors will make the rooms too dark? Dark floors would suit the wall colors. Any advice?

We are building a house and we’re trying to find a dark stain that will compliment our modern interior. We most likely will have a 4″ or 5″ Oak plank or a Walnut. I looked at the Ebony stain, but it seems to have a green tint. We also mixed Jacobean with the Ebony and it still shows a bit green. Can you recommend a deep, rich, dark brown stain color for us?

I must decide on light or dark wood flooring. I love the look of the darker wood, but I have been told that scratches look blaring on darker wood. Is this true, and how do you maintain them?

Is there a way to tell if the stain and polyurethane are compatible? I have heard that sometimes using ones that are not compatible will cause it to flake? I had a quote from a gentleman to lay about 1200sf and finish a total of 1500sf for $3700 with H**** brand stain or poly– I am not sure. Is this a good or bad price?

I’m about to stain a redwood floor I have just prepped. I’d like a dark stain. Is there one you can recommend?

We are going to have our main floor, oak, sanded and stained a darker color than it currently is. What do we do with the stairs? Leave them the lighter natural color? Or stain them darker to match? Then do we paint the banister a chocolate brown to complete the look?

I have just finished staining my pine floor. I used a wood conditioner and then used an oil based stain. I did this in two parts, and now I have lap marks. How do I get rid of these?

We have a brand new maple hardwood, factory stained a dark brown/reddish colour. Our stairs are also maple and stained by the home builder, chestnut brown. The 2 colours don’t match well and we want to find out how to find a better match and restain the stairs.

I have natural cherry wood floors. Today I got them sanded and polyurethaned, and now the stairs that we’re previously done looks darker. They have never been stained and contractor says they used oil based poly w/ high gloss. Why doesn’t it match, and can it be fixed?

I recently installed and finished a hickory floor myself. The install was tough, but it came out great. Sanding went well, but finishing left streaks and blotches (did an oil modified sealer then water based urethane). I wasn’t happy, so I resanded the floor back down, and this time did a water based sealer and then water based urethane. No streaks, but I do have the occasional lap mark where I needed to turn the t-bar around when dragging the puddle of finish. Any ideas on how to get rid of these? I have 1 coat of sealer and 2 coats of urethane. I am thinking of screening\sanding them down with very fine (300-400 grit) paper once the floor is cured for a few weeks. Any advice? And yes - I just found your Q&A, and you are right: leave the finish to the pros - it took me three tries to get the floor to where it is now!

I purchased some oak hardwood flooring. I used an orbital sander on the floor. It’s a pretty small area. I do not notice any scratches on the floor. I’m wondering if this will suffice for me to start staining.

We are considering having our natural (no stain) red oak flooring (3/4″ thick) refinished with a dark stain and 3 coats of premium oil urethane. We have been told that a dark stain will show scratches (from the dog), and marks far more than the current natural floor does, and that we will always be touching up the scratches (if that’s even possible to do.) What is your experience with dark stained floors and wearing capabilities?

I am refinishing my 45 year old oak floors. When I removed the carpet there were 3 dark stains. I figure it is pet urine. Sanding is finished, but the stains are still visible. If I apply a darker (perhaps cherry oak) stain, will it hide the urine stains or will they just get darker? Could I apply less stain to the spots to try to even it all out?

…color of stain should you use on white oak floors to make them dark? Such as an ebony color.

I have a wall to wall rug that has been in my apartment since way before I moved in (more than 10 years), and I would like to remove the rug. Can I stain the hardwood floor without sanding first? I understand that I won’t know what condition the floor would be in, but I am looking for a easy way to make the floor look decent.

We are looking at purchasing an engineered hardwood floor for our kitchen - maple / graphite dark grey. I was told by a someone that dark grey stains don’t wear as well as they don’t penetrate as deep as other “lighter” stains. Is this true?