WoodFlooringGuy.com

We just went through a major renovation. We added new hardwood floors and had the existing ones refinished, so all would match. Due to some problems with the finish clouding and not drying properly, they were sanded at least three more times, with poly put on after each sanding. Two weeks after we moved back into our home, the poly started flaking and buffer circles started showing up. Now 6 months later it looks horrible.

I had an engineered floor glued down on a concrete slab eight months ago. I have noticed that the veneer on two boards is peeling. Is this common, and how can it be repaired?

I have wood floors that have been refinished, stained and sealed with a polyurethane top coat. The poly has started to flake and is also dull. Is there a product I can use to revive the poly and reseal without having to sand it completely and reapply?

My question would be that of using acrylic urethane rather than oil based urethane. Would using an oil based urethane have caused the ‘peeling’ that has occurred? We were advised to use oil based urethane. When two/three coats dried, the ‘ink’ like stain is coming up with a wipe of a rag and/or if you touch it. Basically the stain is somehow trapped. Any advice? This is the best way I know how to explain.

I’ve just had an underfloor radiant heat system installed under my existing and newly rewoven/patched oak flooring. The reweaving/patch was due to interior walls being removed. A low gloss oil based polyurethane was applied to the floor. Some nails that were protruding below the subfloor were cut so that the radiant pipe wouldn’t be damaged. They had to refinish the floors a second time because they were rough. Now the edges of some planks are peeling, especially in the hallway. The contractor claims this is occurring because the nails were cut. But it’s happening in a room that didn’t have nails cut. The radiant system hasn’t been turned on yet. It was cold, about 50 degrees in the house when they polyed but about 30 outside. I don’t know if they used a sealer. What should he do to fix the problem?

I had Brazilian cherry hardwood floor installed, stained with sedona red from miniwax, and it looked great until I put the fast drying polyurethane down. I sanded it with 220 grit. The first coast went down easy and soaked it, but the second coat was hard to spread, like putting glue and now you can see all the marks where the lambswool stopped and started. It is oil based and I don’t know how or why it looks like this and how to fix it.

What would cause air bubbles to be in a hardwood floor?

So I didn’t heed the expert advice and I refinished my hardwood floors myself…

I have new 4 inch oak floors with a M***** Dark Walnut finish. I have several issues that I an concerned about. For one, there are a number of areas that have tiny sand mark circles. Lots and lots of them. The flooring company said there is just no way around that with a dark walnut stain. Also, there are many areas that have a variance in the color, for instance, boards that are much lighter in color or much darker. Finally, there are areas where there are stripes, like tiger stripes. Is this true that this is the absolute best that can be done? I want to be fair to my contractor and not have unreasonable expectations, yet I also want to be a good consumer and be treated honestly and fairly. Any insight would be helpful.

I have just had professionals install my new red oak wood floor. There are bubbles on the floor (seems like there is a mix of debris - like dust, splinters and lint as well as just air bubbles in the Poly). They are telling me that this is normal, and with time they will go away. Is this really the case or should they buff and re-apply another coat of poly?

I asked if it would be possible to put a coat of the satin on top. I think he is willing to do this, but he says that every coat added makes a floor shinier, by it’s nature. Is that true?

I just had my floors refinished due to a water damage. I have 3/4″ red oak. We went with a natural finish with semi-gloss finish. The floors look great, but I have one concern: one area in my floors, when the SUN hits this spot, I can see swirl marks. Is this finishing problem?

I sanded my floors, then put 2-3 coats of poly on them. I decided I wanted another coat-that was done about a month ago… fish eye bubbles all over the place now! I don’t want to have to rent another sander (it’s a huge fuss in an apartment building). This is a very small floor space. A pro tried to get rid of them by putting another coat of poly on-a colleague of his told him this might or might not work-it didn’t! I would love to get rid of the fish eyes for once and all.

However, the problem is, the finish is “chipping” off. There are scratches, yes, but they just look like regular scratches, and then there are spots where the finish has chipped off, and the wood is the same pale color it was the day I put it in, instead of the dark orange I stained it. These are actually shaped like chips you would see in fingernail polish, etc. Unfortunately, they are all over the whole floor.

I just obtained some pre-finished samples to help me choose the species, color and finish of my new floor. I have a dog. I tried to see how resilient the flooring would be by scratching the samples with my thumbnail. None of the samples seem very resilient, but what really seems to scratch is the finish, not the wood, and this uses the aluminum oxide.

I have just sanded doing the 36, 50, and 80 grit. I stained it as well. However, when I rolled the first coat of oil based polyurethane I got bubbles everywhere. Is there a way to get rid of the bubbles with out re-renting a buffer, etc.?

We applied a water based polyurethane to our freshly stained floors. We have only done one coat with a roller. We have places where there was not enough polyurethane on the roller and places where you can tell it was stopped to reload the roller. Should we apply the second coat and see how it looks or buff the floor then reapply?

The laminate flooring we purchased was defective in the sense that there seems to be no finish coat on it. Residue, like the underside color, comes off on the tips of the kids shoes socks and any cloth used to clean it. The store did replace it (not from the same manufacturer). The problem we are having now is they would not install it. As it is to late in the year for us to do it ourselves, can a finish be put on it until we have time to install the new floor?

We have a gym floor that we refinish (oil based product) every year around Christmas. We are having troubles with it being very slick right now (basketball games and practice for a month and a half before we can re-finish). We have cleaned several times with a very fine scrubber (very low abrasive) but it really doesn’t help too much. We try cleaners that are not to leave a residue and also used wet towels on dry-mops. Nothing is working. My question is, is there a product that we could add to something that would restore the tackiness? It can actually be quite dangerous.

We recently put down beautiful unfinished Brazilian walnut hardwood floors. It has been almost a week since the first coat of the poly was put on and it just doesn’t seem to be drying. After doing a bit of research on the web, I have come across a few places that say an oil based poly on Brazilian hardwood is not a good idea; it causes problems like we’re seeing. Unfortunately, I have not found any solutions! Where do we go from here?