WoodFlooringGuy.com

Q: I have Brazilian cherry hardwood floors, natural finish, 3 coats oil base poly (high gloss). The floor was installed late summer with AC on in house and the material sat in house for 7 days. I still expected the floor to shrink over the winter and it appears to have done so within acceptable [...]

Q: We put in American Cherry hard wood floors. The floor people sanded and did two coats of oil poly. We felt it wasn’t enough and wanted another coat. They weren’t available, so we hired another person. They have put on two coats on top of the other two. There is one line of ripple [...]

We have wood floors that were installed 5 or 6 years ago. I had them recently recoated and the coating is peeling off. The flooring company advised that cleaning products such as Murphy’s Oil Soap (which I used on my floors) will penetrate the finished wood in scratches and deep grooves and cause the re-coating product not to adhere. I was advised that I should never use Murphy’s on my wood floors. I am trying to verify if this is correct, in your experience.

We had a new prefinished oak floor installed. On several of the more knotty or highly grained boards the finish and actual wood are flaking and peeling up. Is this normal?

We have Bruce pre-finished hardwood flooring throughout our home. Can it be sanded, re-stained and finished without the poly so there is no more flaking? The flooring is 10 years old and I have become so frustrated that I have cleaned it with water, trying to make it look better.

I have 2000 square feet of hardwood floors, and in some areas the poly looks like it is peeling off. So far I have made one huge mistake: I cleaned all the floors with ammonia, and that took the water, dirt, and wax off of them. Then I used an oil based product called Dura Seal on two rooms. It made a huge difference. I then added a water based poly to one room and it dried great, but you could scratch off the poly. I do not know what to do about that. I do not want to sand my entire house. Can you put a stain over old oil based polyurethane and then use an oil based poly? Any suggestions?

My hardwood floors were just cleaned and then three coats of finish/poly were added. The cleaning did not include any abrasion. I noticed prior to the cleaning that there were areas where the top most part of the oak wood has lifted, almost like it is peeling off. It looks like the poly layers, as well as some of the wood, are dry and about to peel off. How do I fix this?

We own a 116 year old Victorian home and our large dining room area has an original pine wood floor. Since we have lived here for only two years, we have never refinished this floor. The problem is that lately, in quite a few spots, the finish has peeled and cracked, leaving bare spots that are actually deeper than the rest of the wood. Can we repair just these spots and then finish the whole floor? What are the steps taken to fix this?

We just went through a major renovation. We added new hardwood floors and had the existing ones refinished, so all would match. Due to some problems with the finish clouding and not drying properly, they were sanded at least three more times, with poly put on after each sanding. Two weeks after we moved back into our home, the poly started flaking and buffer circles started showing up. Now 6 months later it looks horrible.

I had an engineered floor glued down on a concrete slab eight months ago. I have noticed that the veneer on two boards is peeling. Is this common, and how can it be repaired?

I have wood floors that have been refinished, stained and sealed with a polyurethane top coat. The poly has started to flake and is also dull. Is there a product I can use to revive the poly and reseal without having to sand it completely and reapply?

However, the problem is, the finish is “chipping” off. There are scratches, yes, but they just look like regular scratches, and then there are spots where the finish has chipped off, and the wood is the same pale color it was the day I put it in, instead of the dark orange I stained it. These are actually shaped like chips you would see in fingernail polish, etc. Unfortunately, they are all over the whole floor.

I have hardwood floors that are old and very dry. I sanded the old finish off, which was spotty and flaking off, but some of the wood looks gray and discolored. Is there any remedy besides replacement?

Q: The old farm house we just moved into has hard wood floors, and whatever type of coating they used is peeling and scratches easily. Any idea what kind of coating they used? When the coating peels away it is kind of sticky. A: Sounds like they may have tried applying varnish over top of [...]

Our house is only new-one and a half years. We just had the top coat of our wood floors sanded and refinished. After only one and a half months the floors are starting to peel. What could be causing this and how do we fix it?

Could open windows and cold temperatures have caused peeling air bubbles?

I am looking at refinishing a oak hardwood floor that has had a product called gymnasium 401 on it. I am wondering how I remove it without damaging the stain under it? What would I use to refinish it after? There are a few spots where the finish has peeled of and there was duct tape put on it to hold down cardboard when the people moved out and the tape is taking the finish of also?

We have pine floors in our home and we did a scuff with an 80 grit sandpaper to make it so the polyurethane will adhere to it. We used 2 coats of low luster as a base and 1 coat of High gloss to finish. The problem is My High gloss is peeling. It doesn’t seem to be the first 2 coats just the high gloss. The other weird thing is. We have 2 areas of this room the one was covered in carpet the other has been redone before. Well, the area that was redone before is not having any peeling issues. It seems that the peeling stops where the pine flooring that has been uncovered begins. We used the same on both sides and did both at the same time. I am dumbfounded and don’t know why the floor would be doing this. My father who is a flooring installer is flabbergasted as to why. He thought the paint may have been bad but, that would not explain why I have a good adhesion to the one side of the floor and not the other. This flooring is about 68 years old and about 3/4 inch thick still a lot to work with. What do you suggest?

Help! Our contractor, who has now disappeared, applied sealer to our wood floors. I had previously stained a checkerboard pattern in the floor. The water based product they used is now flaking. One professional came over and stated that we had to take the floor all the way back down again. Is there a way I can take the sealer off lightly, and re-apply something else?