WoodFlooringGuy.com

I installed hardwood flooring, sanded, put 2 coats of poly. After the third coat the floor has several spider-webbed type cracks in it, why?

I have brand new hardwood floors (we have been in our new house 3 months). There are areas of my floor where the polyurethane is flaking off. The contractor has blamed this on my 11 year old 60 lb. lab. I fully expected scratches but not flaking and peeling of poly.

I’m a contractor and just had 4′ walnut flooring installed in a clients home. a few months later, there are white lines in between the long edges of the floor boards in many areas.

Well, despite his care, within about two weeks of putting the final coat on, it started yellowing. We decided to let it go. About 5 months later we noticed that the finish was starting to peel. We can peel large and long strips of finish from the floor. Needless to say we are very disapointed with the product.

We had a new prefinished oak floor installed. On several of the more knotty or highly grained boards the finish and actual wood are flaking and peeling up. Is this normal?

I’m extremely unhappy with the outcome. My floors now look like a pond on a windy day, with ripples and bare spots and bubbles. The guy claims the previous owners must have washed them with an oil/soap and the poly did not adhere to the surface.

We have Bruce pre-finished hardwood flooring throughout our home. Can it be sanded, re-stained and finished without the poly so there is no more flaking? The flooring is 10 years old and I have become so frustrated that I have cleaned it with water, trying to make it look better.

I have 2000 square feet of hardwood floors, and in some areas the poly looks like it is peeling off. So far I have made one huge mistake: I cleaned all the floors with ammonia, and that took the water, dirt, and wax off of them. Then I used an oil based product called Dura Seal on two rooms. It made a huge difference. I then added a water based poly to one room and it dried great, but you could scratch off the poly. I do not know what to do about that. I do not want to sand my entire house. Can you put a stain over old oil based polyurethane and then use an oil based poly? Any suggestions?

I am using Z** Ultra Max waterborne oil modified polyurethane to cover my new hardwood floor (approx. 1900 sq. ft.). I have put down four coats, and I can still see light colored spots where it appears the finish has been “sucked up” into the wood. I have gone over these “dry patches” a few times individually, and they are still a lighter color that makes the surface look like it is dry in that area.

White pine floor, 3 coats of poly… The last coat has not hardened, and it has been almost two weeks. It’s dry on top, but the poly is still soft. When you turn your foot on it tears up. Should it take that long or longer to harden? What if I heat the room for a few days? It has been 60-75 degrees during the day and 35-55 at night for the last 2 weeks.

The extractives in exotic woods are known to cause drying delays, adhesion failures, and soft cure in the seal and finish coats.

Cold weather is upon us again, the following are some tips to help your finish perform to its maximum efficiency.

What are the most important factors contributing to proper drying of a finish?

The viscosity of the finish is critical to good finish application. The single biggest factor which influences the viscosity of the finish is temperature

When my new bar was installed, the installer damaged our new cedar floor. The GC used Scotch Brite to finely sand off the problem. When it was time to put the final coating over the damaged area he got what he described as “flashing” (streaking). How can this be fixed?

We are building a new house. We had a flaming red birch wood floor installed. They sanded it and put two coats of a water based sealer on it, 4 months ago. The house took longer to finish then expected. When they came out to put the third coat on it and replace some big gaps in the floor (due to a subfloor seam pulling apart, due to drying), we noticed white blotches all over the floor. The company that laid the floor states he has never seen nor heard of this. The rep of the company says he has never seen this before. They all say it’s a problem, but they don’t seem to have an answer except charging us more money to redo it and see what happens. What caused the white areas, and how does it get fixed?

My hardwood floors were just cleaned and then three coats of finish/poly were added. The cleaning did not include any abrasion. I noticed prior to the cleaning that there were areas where the top most part of the oak wood has lifted, almost like it is peeling off. It looks like the poly layers, as well as some of the wood, are dry and about to peel off. How do I fix this?

I refinished Oak Hardwood floors with a water based polyurethane. Put two coats of base coat down. Used proper sanding methods. The third coat of polyurethane left shaded (dark) spots under cabinets. Any idea on how to fix?

I had problems with the third coat of poly drying too fast and leaving lots of bubbles. So, I hand sanded with 100 grit, and with the 4th coat decided to cut the fast dry poly with 25% mineral spirits to ensure no bubbles, and let it slow dry (no ventilation). Now I can see all the sanding marks on the floor? Did cutting the poly cause this?

We removed old linoleum and found very nice pine flooring underneath. We had it sanded, stained and polyurethaned. It was beautiful– for about 6 months. All the stain has worn off. Now it’s an ugly, grey, worn floor. We were told that this was to be expected with a soft wood like pine. Is this true? Should I try again, or plan on putting a new floor over this?