WoodFlooringGuy.com

Q: Can you sand and refinish the floor in patches that have worn more than others (at entrance and exit doors) or does the whole floor have to be done? A: If you want the entire floor to look the same, then the entire floor would need to be sanded and finished.

Q: I had my floors refinished, but they left lumps in the poly and I cannot get them to fix it. What can I do? Screen and polish? A: Are these lumps ‘debris’ or pimples? If they are pimples and there aren’t a lot of them, you could try to compress them with a roller [...]

Q: I’m a flooring installer. I do lots of tile and pre-finished wood flooring, but never sand and finish. I have a good friend doing the sanding as it’s his expertise, but I’m going to finish it. I’m trying to find out what I should use for the finish. I want to see the difference [...]

Q: We are currently in our refinishing stage and having issues with the water-based polyurethane. We used a low sheen poly, but floors from room-to-room are looking quite different. One is very shiny and another quite dull. We can’t think of any variations in the previous steps, so we have no clue what is going [...]

Q: We just bought a house that has oak floors (1989) with a light/white finish with beveled wood. The bevel is pretty deep. The floors need to be refinished and we want to change the color to natural, but do not want to sand off the bevel, is there anyway to get the white color [...]

Q: What is the best product to fill gaps in a hardwood floor? I am refinishing. A: There are a lot of different fillers on the market. I haven’t used them all. Woodwise is OK, but like most of them will crack out if there is movement between boards. The toughest one I’ve ever used [...]

Q: We just bought a house and are having the floors professionally done. What is better: water based or oil based finish? A: I still believe an omu will out perform a water borne finish, but it depends on the situation. There are circumstances where a water borne is superior. I don’t know your situation…

Q: Please tell me all you know about Waterlox. Will it work on 10′ wide pine planks (not reclaimed) and look good? Do you need to sand between coats? Can I stain first and then apply or should I just put the waterlox down? A: Waterlox is amazing on pine, especially if staining. Mix he [...]

Q: I am sanding a hard wood floor that has been carpeted over for almost 40 yrs. The paper is plugging up very quickly with, well, I’m not sure what it is. Possibly varathane with linseed oil, or wax? What can I use to remove this so it can be sanded? A: You can use [...]

Q: I bought some antique maple beech flooring 3/4 unfinished and put Duraseal on it. I think I made a mistake. I wanted the patina to come through. Can I apply an oil based sealer? With screening or not? A: I think you will need to sand over, but if you are intent on now [...]

I’m in the process of tearing out the carpet of a 55 year old house. There are original hardwood floors underneath in very good condition. Should I coat it?

Is there a coating that will make the floor hard without compromising the colour?

I just refinished my wood floor with minway pro oil base satin and the floor looked shiny in some areas and not in others. So, I redid the floor and still have the problem.. what causes the floor to shine in certain areas and not others?

How heavy should polyurethane be applied?

The painters put down paper with painters blue tape to protect the floor. When the tape was pulled up a coat of the finish came up with the tape. What could cause this?

I live in an old house which had oak floors sanded (they are light beige now), apparently a few times. I have cracks and areas in the kitchen where the color is worn. I cannot afford to put in new floors. I was wondering if it is possible to fix the cracks and stains (from carpet, plants and my dog’s urine) and refinish the kitchen.

My oak hardwood floor has orange spots all over, after my contractor refinished my floor. What are the spots from? No stain involved.. just sealer and polyurethane

Our new stained oak floors have developed bubbles of polyurethane along the cracks between the boards that flake off.

I put 3 coats of polyurethane on my hardwood floor and it still doesn’t shine, so I just let it go. Now after a couple of months have gone by I would like to know what I can do to make it shine, since I am going to refinish the dining room which is right next to the living room.

We have wood floors that were installed 5 or 6 years ago. I had them recently recoated and the coating is peeling off. The flooring company advised that cleaning products such as Murphy’s Oil Soap (which I used on my floors) will penetrate the finished wood in scratches and deep grooves and cause the re-coating product not to adhere. I was advised that I should never use Murphy’s on my wood floors. I am trying to verify if this is correct, in your experience.