WoodFlooringGuy.com

Ok, these sample boards I’ve been working on. I’m trying to show the difference in appearance between oil modified and water borne urethane. The samples are on steamed walnut (that is the sample with the consistent colouration), unsteamed walnut, quarter sawn white oak and plain sawn red oak. On the white oak I’ve also stained [...]

Q: Do you know of a good source for information to give customers for oil finish maturity? Like the PDF Glitsa has on their website under their “What to expect during curing process” link(http://www.glitsa.com/maintenance.php). We don’t normally use Glitsa for obvious reasons. We use Bona oil base and cannot find that kind of a list [...]

Q: I just got my floors refinished and I was under the impression that the waterborne finish would be the most durable from scratches. I can easily scratch my floors with a light rub of my fingernail and I am concerned because I have 2 dogs who I’ve not let on the floor yet, and [...]

Q from the Wood Flooring Guy to a reader: How did you like the Poloplaz? A: The main reason that I chose it was because of the fact that it could be rolled on. As a ‘Do it Yourself-er’ the thought of using lambswool and getting the product applied evenly scared me. I used 1/4′ [...]

Q: We have 2 coats of Swedish finish on our oak floor, still in great condition after 5 years of good care. We are downsizing a kitchen island and thus will be exposing an area around each side of the island by about 12″. The floor which will be exposed was sanded, but never finished. [...]

Q: What finish is best to prevent denting? A: There isn’t a finish I know of that will prevent denting. Each species of wood has a different resistance to denting, and there is some variation from floor to floor and piece to piece within the same species. Note from Rachel: Here’s a link to the [...]

Q: We have 1930′s oak floors, waxed, but with areas of water damage. I like wax (I strip and wax every year or so), but should we change to poly or whatever is current? My husband is wanting to avoid the chemicals involved in the waxing. We have poly in other new/addition areas, but I [...]

Q: Which is the best varnish for Cabreuva flooring (Santos Mahogany)? We tried some different varnishes, but it could not dry. A: These exotics can be quite a challenge given the oils or what might be referred to as ‘extractives’. A water borne finish may be your best choice because you would avoid any cross [...]

Q: I am doing a project in class, and I need to know what kind of finish is best for use on White Birch wood. I can’t seem to find it anywhere else on the Internet, so I figured I would ask you. A: What is the ‘best’ finish is not easy to answer, and [...]

Q: Can I buy this Poloplaz product at any local store or do I need to order it? A: It’s a professional finish you could have shipped to you.

Q: I have a pine floor which was stained and then tung oiled. I don’t think there was enough tung oil applied. Like maybe there should have been 5 or 6 applications instead of 3? The floor is taking a beating. In some places the stain is actually worn (we have several dogs and lots [...]

Q: I see on your site that you recommend Waterlox versus 100% tung oil. Do you sell Waterlox or do you just really believe in this product? A: No, I don’t sell it. I’ve had some very good experience with it and at least for staining pine, mixing the stain with the Waterlox saved me [...]

Q: We had new wooden floors installed in our kitchen/living area in 2000. We were advised by the contractor to use a tung oil finish, saying it would last longer and be durable, and because we have a southern facing 12′x9′ window, for reduced fading. I hate it! It has faded, scratched, spotted and can’t [...]

Q: I have wood floors coated with tung oil. What is the best way to keep them looking good? A: I had a discussion with a technical rep of Lee Valley tools regarding the use of Tung oil as a floor finish. He said you would need an initial 10 coats with 2 days drying [...]

Q: We have a 218 year old home with original maple floors. We are in the process of sanding them and refinishing them. We have used poly in the past, but recently someone told us varnish was better. What do you think? We really want low maintenance and something that will last a long time. [...]

Q: We just bought a house and are having the floors professionally done. What is better: water based or oil based finish? A: I still believe an omu will out perform a water borne finish, but it depends on the situation. There are circumstances where a water borne is superior. I don’t know your situation…

Q: Please tell me all you know about Waterlox. Will it work on 10′ wide pine planks (not reclaimed) and look good? Do you need to sand between coats? Can I stain first and then apply or should I just put the waterlox down? A: Waterlox is amazing on pine, especially if staining. Mix he [...]

Q: I bought some antique maple beech flooring 3/4 unfinished and put Duraseal on it. I think I made a mistake. I wanted the patina to come through. Can I apply an oil based sealer? With screening or not? A: I think you will need to sand over, but if you are intent on now [...]

After applying the stain to the hardwood tread what do you suggest should be applied next? Any suggestions on types, brands, etc.?

I have spent an excessive amount of time preparing my hardwood floors in my home for refinish. I have come to the conclusion (through reading in forums) that oil based polyurethanes are the most durable, therefore, that is what I want to use. My question is, what are your thoughts, as a professional floor refinisher, of M***** Super Fast Drying Polyurethane for floors? Have you ever used it? Is it a long lasting finish? Is it user friendly for amateurs as myself? Would you recommend it? Thank you very much for your opinion.