Best way to clean up saw dust
Thursday, April 30th, 2009What is the best way to clean up saw dust after sanding a floor?
What is the best way to clean up saw dust after sanding a floor?
This area has the most traffic so I must have a varnish that will hold up to the wear and tear.
I installed hardwood flooring, sanded, put 2 coats of poly. After the third coat the floor has several spider-webbed type cracks in it, why?
I have brand new hardwood floors (we have been in our new house 3 months). There are areas of my floor where the polyurethane is flaking off. The contractor has blamed this on my 11 year old 60 lb. lab. I fully expected scratches but not flaking and peeling of poly.
I was wondering if there is a difference between buffing and sanding.
I’m a contractor and just had 4′ walnut flooring installed in a clients home. a few months later, there are white lines in between the long edges of the floor boards in many areas.
I recently installed engeneered flooring with aluminum oxide finish. My wife wants to put polyurethane on it. Is this a good idea?
Well, despite his care, within about two weeks of putting the final coat on, it started yellowing. We decided to let it go. About 5 months later we noticed that the finish was starting to peel. We can peel large and long strips of finish from the floor. Needless to say we are very disapointed with the product.
We had a new prefinished oak floor installed. On several of the more knotty or highly grained boards the finish and actual wood are flaking and peeling up. Is this normal?
I have spent an excessive amount of time preparing my hardwood floors in my home for refinish. I have come to the conclusion (through reading in forums) that oil based polyurethanes are the most durable, therefore, that is what I want to use. My question is, what are your thoughts, as a professional floor refinisher, of M***** Super Fast Drying Polyurethane for floors? Have you ever used it? Is it a long lasting finish? Is it user friendly for amateurs as myself? Would you recommend it? Thank you very much for your opinion.
I would like to refinish the floors in our 100 year old farm house, but I don’t want them to look all shiny and new when I am done. I would like to preserve the old and worn look. Ideas?
I’m extremely unhappy with the outcome. My floors now look like a pond on a windy day, with ripples and bare spots and bubbles. The guy claims the previous owners must have washed them with an oil/soap and the poly did not adhere to the surface.
We have Bruce pre-finished hardwood flooring throughout our home. Can it be sanded, re-stained and finished without the poly so there is no more flaking? The flooring is 10 years old and I have become so frustrated that I have cleaned it with water, trying to make it look better.
I am purchasing a new home with hardwood floors throughout the first floor. I have heard that you should not put down area rugs for 6 months to a year, because the floor around the rug can fade and the floor underneath will be a different color. Is this true?
I have 2000 square feet of hardwood floors, and in some areas the poly looks like it is peeling off. So far I have made one huge mistake: I cleaned all the floors with ammonia, and that took the water, dirt, and wax off of them. Then I used an oil based product called Dura Seal on two rooms. It made a huge difference. I then added a water based poly to one room and it dried great, but you could scratch off the poly. I do not know what to do about that. I do not want to sand my entire house. Can you put a stain over old oil based polyurethane and then use an oil based poly? Any suggestions?
Could I put another coat of polyurethane on my hard wood floor, or should I sand it first?
How do I know if my wood floors need to be refinished?
I am using Z** Ultra Max waterborne oil modified polyurethane to cover my new hardwood floor (approx. 1900 sq. ft.). I have put down four coats, and I can still see light colored spots where it appears the finish has been “sucked up” into the wood. I have gone over these “dry patches” a few times individually, and they are still a lighter color that makes the surface look like it is dry in that area.
White pine floor, 3 coats of poly… The last coat has not hardened, and it has been almost two weeks. It’s dry on top, but the poly is still soft. When you turn your foot on it tears up. Should it take that long or longer to harden? What if I heat the room for a few days? It has been 60-75 degrees during the day and 35-55 at night for the last 2 weeks.
The extractives in exotic woods are known to cause drying delays, adhesion failures, and soft cure in the seal and finish coats.