Q: We milled second growth Douglas fir in 2016. We are sorting through the pile of full dimension 1×6, to send 2000 away for kiln drying, planing, and t&g’ing for flooring. It is not all edge grain, but a mix of edge and face. We’re wondering about a finish.
Q: When finishing multi rooms and wishing to do them individually, what do you do where the rooms join each other? So you don’t have an overlap from one room to the other?
Q: Is it wise to wipe the freshly sanded hardwood floors down with linseed oil before the polyurethane? The floors had a lot of stains and several different chemicals were used to remove them. I was told by using linseed oil that would seal the wood so there would not be any chemical reaction with the polyurethane Is this the solution to do?
Q: I recently sanded the finish off of my hardwood floor (red oak). I did not take it down to the bare wood so the stain remained. I applied one coat of Masters Gloss Polyurethane. After 48 hours I sanded with 220 grit paper, cleaned it thoroughly and applied another coat of Masters Gloss Polyurethane. I waited 48 hours and sanded it with 320 grit paper, clean thoroughly and applied one coat of Masters Satan Polyurethane (well stirred). I loved the clean, clear look of the gloss but feel the satin is dull looking, almost fake.
Q: We had taped (using green painters tape) Ram Board down onto oiled hardwood floors to do some drywall repairs. One area was taped down for 5 days and the one section for 3 hours. It didn’t matter 3 hours or 5 days, when we pulled the tape off it pulled a slight finish off the hardwood. so now there’s a faint whitish line where the tape was. And it’s not tape residue on the hardwood. The hardwood is White Oak, Smokey Mountain, the oil is Woca Oil.
Q: My floors seem to have spots along each side, in the seam between the boards.
Q: 1500 SF, 2 Coats of Poloplaz fast dry sealer down on stained Hickory. Licensed floor refinisher did not clean the stained floor, so the sealer is full of grit and some hairs. I need to abrade this floor now by hand because the floor is not flat. Tried 17″ rotary but it hits high places and damages the stain below, to raw wood in some places.
Q: I have recovered douglas fir floors from carpet and linoleum, scraping the mastic off with a diamabrush/buffer. So far so good. My sanding plan is to use the buffer machine and 60/80/100/120 discs. Then finish sand with an oscillator at 120 to get out the large swirl marks. Do you think this will ‘close the grain’ so the oil finish will be blotchy?
Q: We had our pine floors sanded and they put a coat of polyurethane on and are coming back tomorrow to put the final coat on. Is this enough? Now I am reading everywhere that at least 3 coats should go on. Are we getting ripped off?
Q: I just had my hall, lounge, and dining room floorboards repaired, sanded and stained. They were in a bad way, with broken boards and gauges, which were all filled or replaced. The job looked like it was being done well.
However, now that it is stained and finished I have noticed areas at the edge where they missed sander marks. And the hall boards are still undulating, highest in the middle of boards.