Droplet marks on our floor where rug cleaning machine leaked

Q: We have a dark walnut prefinished floor with a urethane coat. My husband cleaned our rugs with a rented machine, which needed a cleaning of it’s own. Now there are drop marks on our floor where the machine leaked. I used ‘** Hardwood Floor Polish’ and tried to buff the floor. Nothing works.. Help!

A: Give this cleaner a try: www.hardwoodcleaner.com

Yellow highlighter colored marks on floor

Q: Hello, we just discovered stains that look to be small splatters of liquid on our light hardwood floors. They are the color of yellow highlighter. The house was brand new when we moved in, in January, nine months ago. We hadn’t noticed them until this afternoon. We cannot figure out what they might be. They seem to trail across the kitchen. We’ve tried Dawn with water, a magic eraser, peroxide, vinegar, a scrub daddy.. Someone suggested oil soap, which we need to buy still, so we haven’t tried it yet.

A: I have no idea what the yellow spots are but the last thing you want to use is an oil soap which can leave a residue on the finish which both dulls the finish and creates adhesion issues if you want to re-coat the floor. Try a little alcohol or some floor cleaner from a manufacturer who makes products for floors finished with polyurethane.

Scrubbed a few marks out of the floor with a scrub pad, also scrubbed off the finish

Q: I was cleaning the wood floors in the apartment I moved into this week, and I scrubbed a few marks out of the floor with a scrub pad. I was able to remove the marks, but I also took the finish off the floor in a couple of the spots.

My question is: Is there any type of specific product out there that I could apply to these dull spots, that will make them appear glossy? Or did I just totally mess up these floors? Any advice would be appreciated.

A: I would rub down the entire boards or pieces affected then tape off the same boards. Apply a polyurethane (if that is the finish used) in the sheen of your choice (gloss?) and remove the tape immediately.

Repairing burn marks on floor

Q: I had to belt sand a burned oak floor. In spots I got the stain correct [matching golden oak], now I want to feather the urethane edge. The original floor is 4 coats of urethane I think. The divots were 1/8 deep.

A: I haven’t seen what this burned area looks like but if it was bad enough, I may have opted to replace the damaged boards. In coating, you are better off isolating entire boards involved in the repair. Sand coats of finish on entire boards, remove dust and use painters tape along edges of those boards. Apply a thin coat and remove the tape immediately. Repeat as needed. It’s not likely this will be unnoticeable when dry. It time, with some wear it will look less noticeable.

Follow-up: Thank you for your input. I am 62 and I have worked with much wood and finishing. This task is rare and I have not been able to find anyone who has done a repair like this. I will keep you informed when I get it completed. The floor got burned in spots, 2 spots deep, and the rest splattered they are lucky. The wood grain is too beautiful to remove and replace, as it was laid with care and matches. I belt sanded it down, and I have stained it to match, which I got it 90% on. The edges are what I will work on today, when finished with polyrethane, many coats, I will wet dry the final out, and bring the area up. I may end up just sanding the entire floor.

A: Ha, I’m 62 also. 63 in March. I’ve done lots of patch repairs. The older the existing floor is, the more difficult it is to get a good colour match. Plus sanding out a burn 1/8″ deep? You would have to feather sand out from there much further so it doesn’t look like a trench or trough. I would apply thin coats of finish on just the affected boards as mentioned. Even with this, the sheen of the coating is likely to not be exact. If you get the stain looking real close, perhaps you can just screen the entire floor and coat the whole thing? Do a couple of test areas to make sure there are no contaminants which would reject adhesion. I have been using Poloplaz Primero for quite a few years now. It rolls on beautifully and is as close to a no failure finish I’ve ever used. There Supreme is also very good but doesn’t dry quite as quickly.

Let me know how it turns out. Tricky work for sure.

Similar Q: I hope you can help me out. I have a hardwood floor and a ceramic heater fell over and heated up the floor to the point of slightly darkening the wood. Is there anything I can do short of replacing the darkened area?

A: You could attempt to sand to clean wood first but restrict this to the entire boards affected. If this is a factory finished floor though you are best to change the boards.

Small indentations in the finish

Q: We recently installed some hardwood floors out of old gym boards. We glued/screwed and plugged them. After banging them up to give them a beaten look, they were stained and finished.

We love the look, but recently found that a folding chair left in place for the weekend has left about 40-50 small crescent moon indentations in the finish for each leg in about a 10 inch radius circle. Some of them are even deep enough to depress the wood. What is the best way to repair this sort of problem? Can I give it a light scuffing of a sanding and then re-apply another coat of finish?

I’m not overly worried about the dents in the wood as the floor has already been distressed, it’s the obvious indentations in the finish that catch the light at the right angle that make it look awful. Any guidance is appreciated. Thanks.

A: I don’t think there is any way to hide these dents short of sanding/scraping them out and staining, finishing the area again. You could try filling them with wood filler, staining them and applying more finish. The lower the shine level in the coating the better is the ability of the finish to hide defects.

Follow-up Q: Thanks. Unfortunately I was hoping to avoid having to re-stain the wood. The majority of the dents are relatively shallow, I’m pretty sure that most don’t go through to the wood and are only on the finish. Do you think it would be worth just trying a light sanding and re-finishing first and if that bombs then to re-stain? Or would that just be a waste of time and money?

A: You could certainly try a light sanding of the area. It is the least intrusive approach. You could tape of the entire boards of the affected area, buff and coat just those boards and then remove the tape. It’s worth a try.

Accidentally scuffed hardwood floor while sanding the baseboards

Q: I recently redecorated a room that needed the baseboards sanded down. I put protection down for the floor, but to my horror when I lifted up the paper I had sanded some of my wood floor too.

Now I have white scuff/sand marks in my floor around the baseboards. How can I get rid of the marks so that it looks better? Anything will look better than it does at the moment.

A: I think I would try just touching these scuffed areas with polyurethane dabbed on a rag to see if it will at least put some colour back into the surface of the finish.

Sanding marks in spot patch

Q: I have waxed parquet oak floors. There are several places where the stain was lightly sanded out, and then stained to match the surrounding wood and waxed. However, the sanding marks still show.

A: It sounds like the spots were sanded across the grain. You need to sand with the grain so these sanding marks don’t show.

Black stains where some of the nails were

Q: I removed the carpet from our stairs. Some nails from the carpet strips must have been wet a time or two, because there are black stains where some of the nails were. It looks like rust to me. How can I remove these stains? Or at least lighten them? I thought that Clorox may work, but some say that this will darken the stain.

The Fe will react with the Cl and form FeCl3. CLR (The household cleaner) does not recommend any use with wood. I looked at OxiClean and there was no information there. CARBONA has a product that is targeted for rust, but it is only available over the Internet. Any suggestions? What about something as simple as vinegar or baking soda?

A: Household bleach isn’t near strong enough to remove stains in wood. Try to scrape or sand them out. The treads will have to be completely sanded and finished.

Similar Q: I am redoing my oak hardwood floors and there are black marks from staples used to staple down the carpet pad. How do I get rid of these black marks?

A: If they won’t sand out and you feel they are too much of an eye sore, you could use a fine nail set and depress them below the surface, then fill the depression with a wood filler that will be less visible.

Grooves from piano being moved

Q: We recently sold our piano. We neglected to tell the people moving it out that they should lay something down to protect our hardwood floor. We now have grooves going all the way from the living room through the dining room from the piano wheels. We are renting the property, which makes me really nervous! When I run my fingers over the grooves, it seems as though they are only in the finish of the floor rather than the wood itself. (I’m guessing that’s a good thing?) What is the best way to fix this, since they continue through several rooms? Does the whole area have to be stripped and refinished?

A: If the depressions are into the floor surface which is likely you will probably have to sand the floors. You might try wetting a towel, placing it over a spot in an inconspicuous spot and iron it dry. See if the moisture is able to get past the finish and pop the wood back up. It’s worth a try.

Indentations from a floor nailer?

Q: We had a new hardwood floor installed three weeks ago. When we got to installing the baseboards we noticed hundreds of indentations. Could they be caused from a floor nailer? We haven’t used the room so it isn’t us that did it. How could these indentations occur? We checked an open box of wood left over and there were no scratches on these. They are everywhere, some the whole length of the board.

A: Could be from a floor nailer, unless they are round dents appearing even in the center of the boards, in which case it may be high heel dents.

Filling small blemishes in wood floor

Q: Hi, I have a two part question about my hardwood floor. We recently had my 4 yr old’s birthday party and had a felt pad came off a chair leg. There are a few minor dings as well as nicks from toys and one bigger blemish. Would using wood filler be the best way to fill the smaller pea sized tor dents? There are only a handful. The larger blemish seems to be from the chair leg being dragged. It is about 3 inches long and maybe 1/8 inch or so wide and just deep enough to feel it with your finger slightly. What’s the best way to touch that up (I don’t have any replacement boards)?

The second part of my question would be, seeing as how we have a 4 yr old and can likely expect a few more nicks and gouges, would a refinish down the road fix these marks anyway? Particularly the chair drag mark? Appreciate your time.. this is a great site!

A: Small blemishes can be filled with a color match filler such as Color-Rite which comes in hundreds of colors in a tube. Your second part really captured what I was thinking as I read your email. Yes, you will no doubt get other marks along the way and yes, future sanding will eliminate them. I compare it to a new car. You never want to get that first ding and are so frustrated when it occurs. But we know it will happen sooner or later. At least with your floors, they aren’t a piece of furniture. They are meant to be walked on. Given that the marks are minor, they will become unimportant not too far in the future.

Follow-up Q: Thanks! I had one other question if you don’t mind. I have what I believe is white line syndrome. I know the likely cause as I spilled a mop bucket on a part of the floor when carrying through the room in January. We managed to dry up the spill very quickly and ran the fan for a few days over the area. The wood is finally dried out and has shrunk a bit. Can fixing this issue wait until I do a full refinish?

A: The finish is peeling or de-laminating near the board edges. I wouldn’t bother going to any effort with the dings if you also have this issue. Leave it for when you are ready to have the floors sanded.

New floor has a tiny gouge mark in nearly every plank

Q: I just had new red natural oak flooring installed, and there’s a tiny gouge mark in nearly every plank of wood. You can see these little indentations clearly in the sunlight and definitely feel them with your finger nail. The installer says that is normal and no wood is perfect. I think it is a manufacturing defect but no one will admit fault. What do I do? Here are some pictures of the gouges of my new floor. Most of them are very similar in size, as if a machine caused it, which is my guess.

A: Did he have a staple stuck in his shoe? Things can happen and I feel bad for the guy. Not sure why he didn’t notice early on there was a problem.

Aluminum oxide and ceramic coatings are very tough. They are abrasion resistant by design. So pre finished floors usually are tougher than site finished floors. For my way of thinking this can be a negative in the long run. Because the coatings are so tough it is about impossible to simply abrade the coatings at some point with a polisher and screen to apply another coat of finish. Every finish will eventually have signs of wear and need to be refreshed but with factor finished floors this usually means a complete resand, removing the micro bevels in the process. I prefer site finished floors but it is a coin toss and a matter of preference. You may be so gentle with your floors that you may never have to worry about refinishing them. If you have a large dog, that idea goes out the window.

Follow-up Q: I’m not sure what happened, I’m still thinking it was when he threw his stapler or hammer down repeatedly. I feel bad for him too, but now I have to go threw the whole disruption and moving everything again. Did I tell you it is the entire downstairs, about 1400 sq feet! I don’t have the site finished floor as an option — it’s either all new floors or refinishing the pre finished floors that are now down, that have the aluminum oxide coating on them.

Follow-up: The installer has finally admitted fault and has offered to refinish the floors or tear them all out and put new ones down. I have been reading that the finish on pre finished floors last longer than refinished, and that pre finished floors with aluminum oxidode are hard to refinish.

I am leaning towards all new floors for those reasons.

Spot sanding water marks off waxed floor

Q: Hi. I’ve attempted to spot sand some water marks off the floor. Have retreated the areas with same wax as rest of floor, but they appear darker now. Do you know what I’ve done wrong?

A: If this is stained wood or tinted wax perhaps you used too coarse of an abrasive, thereby opening the surface of the wood more than the surrounding area. I think I would have used some fine steel wool and a tiny bit of mineral spirits.

Touching up stain in dent

Q: We have dark walnut stain on oak floors, with Swedish finish. A dropped tool put a small dent (half dime sized) that broke through the finish and now the light wood shows. I can live with the dent but need to make it match the rest of the floor and touch up the finish. I’m a pretty good DIYer. Best course of action?

A: That sort of thing is annoying, isn’t it? It happens though and they are wood floors, meant to be walked on. Hard to believe this tool impact actually also removed the stain but that is what it sounds like you are saying. You could dab a touch of the stain on the spot. Additionally there are pre mixed tube fillers such as Color Rite which come in hundreds of shades. If you can find a good match then smooth some into the dent and let it set up. Re-apply if needed. Next day you may want to add a drop of the finish on top of this to harden it and help blend the shine. Hope that helps. I don’t know how Swedish finish is these days but way back it really smelled bad.

Sanding grooves visible after first coat

Q: After sanding and staining our hardwood floors we applied polyurethane, clear semi-gloss. As the first layer started to dry we noticed the floor is covered with the sanding grooves! What can we do to make them not or less noticeable?

A: I’m surprised you didn’t see these marks as soon as you started applying the stain. Short of starting the entire process over, choosing the proper grits to use along with a proper preparation procedure, your next best bet is to go with a very low shine as a finish. The higher the shine the more unforgiving it will be visually. So, I would go with satin or even a matt finish. This will help hide and deflect attention away from the sanding marks.

Repairing caster wheel dent

Q: I have a wood floor that looks like hand scratched with a gloss. We are just moving into this home. They had a pet gate at the top of the stairs with a caster wheel that put a half circular rut into the floor. What is the best way to not make it look so noticeable? Touch up marker, sand it lightly, polyurethane?

A: You mean hand scraped? It depends how deep the ‘rut’ is, but I would try all the things you mentioned. The next step would be to scrape all the finish off the affected boards and do them over. As a side note, it is my view that hand scraped floors should never be finished with polyurethane but you have to deal with what you are inheriting.

Painters scratched wood floor

Q: Yesterday painters were here (third time) to repair and paint our ceiling after an air conditioning leak. I didn’t stand over the painters and watch them, but later that day I notice some dust or paint on a chair and then I noticed deep scratches on the floor, obviously where the ladder was. It was basically directly under the ceiling area they worked on. My husband and I are sick about this, and floor is only couple years old. These were prefinished wood floors. What, if anything can be done? Should the painter be held accountable for this? Thanks for any advice you can give.

A: It depends how bad the scratches are. Perhaps you could pick up a colour match stain pen to help hide the marks. I know Min Wax makes these. I would certainly mention this to the painters.

Gouges and scratches on newly refinished floor

Q: I just had my floors (yellow pine) sanded down to bare wood and refinished with three coats of polyurethane. Within 48 hours my wife dropped a pack-n-play causing several quarter sized gouges in the poly surface, and 84 hours after finishing the floor a cable service man came in and scratched up the surface with his tools. What is the best way of repairing all these gouges and scratches?

A: This is unfortunate, but if it helps this scenario isn’t the first and won’t be the last. For gouges you can use a colour match wood filler such as Color Rite. It comes in tubes. You might be able to dab some polyurethane on the spots only with a ‘Q’ tip after the filler dries. If it shows badly you will have to resort to lightly abrading the affected boards with fine sandpaper, 120 grit or finer, clean off the dust and apply painters tape around each affected board edge and apply a thin coat of the same floor finish. Remove the tape immediately after applying the finish. Likewise for the scratched areas. The next step, more severe, would be to abrade and coat the entire floor. I would attempt the less severe methods first. Remember, thin coats are always better than thick coats.

Scratched prefinished floors, covered in surface scratches

Q: What can I do with pre-finished rosewood floors that are covered in surface scratches? The scratched prefinished floors are only 3 years old but they look horrible especially in the sunlight.

A: There are chemical preparations that help to prepare these aluminum oxide finishes for re-coating. I haven’t used them and don’t know just how effective they are. It would likely be a fairly expensive process. I think you will end up having them sanded and finished. The coatings that are used on these floors is by design abrasion resistant. This makes it very difficult to scratch or abrade the coating sufficiently to apply another coating on top.

Note from webmaster: This post’s second question has a slightly more detailed answer to the same question.