WoodFlooringGuy.com

In December we noticed between the seams of the hardwood floor you can see gaps/lighter color. Even on the new hardwood that they installed.

Some friends of ours had their hardwood floors refinished by professionals. The floor looked perfect after sanding, before the finish; but, after the finish was applied, dark pet spots appeared. I am refinishing my floors and I don’t want the same thing to happen. My sanding is complete and floors look good now, but is there the chance that the same will happen? Or was something done incorrectly to cause this to happen to our friends floor?

We have a K***** hardwood floor in our bedroom, which has been discolored by a rubber mat. What could be done to restore it?

Sanding with fine grit paper doesn’t take the spot (tread mark) off. I have no idea what was on the shoes, no chemicals are in the house. It could have been the maintenance man, but I’m worried about my deposit. Appx. 30 footprint/tread spots. It looks like the floor was refinished by amateurs.

I just had my hardwood floors refinished and the contractor came back a few days later to do a touch up. He has left a few boards shinier then the rest of the floor, and the lighting in the house really spotlights it. Is there any way to diminish the shine on a small area?

I just moved to an old house from the 1800’s. The wooden floor is very old and has very dark stain circles on it. I have tried getting it off with soap and water. It wont come off. I was told I can’t sand it because it is too thin. Is there a dark enough product that can cover it to still make it look like wood, or is there something that can take out the stain?

we are redoing oak hardwood floors in a 1959 bungalow. When we do this we will be removing a small floating closet that will have nails through the floor. How do we remove the black marks from around the nail holes before we fill them?

I had a new real wood floor installed in my living room which abuts the hallway, which already had wood flooring. It is a close match but there are maybe 25 to 30 slats in the new floor that are of a darker shade than any slat on the old floor. Only the first coat of poly has been applied. Is there any way to get the darker slats lighter and to blend more with the floor that was already there?

We bought a newly built home that sat empty for five months. The builder had already installed unstained (but finished with one coat of oil based polyurethane) red oak floors in the living and dining room. We paid to have red oak floors added to the remaining rooms. The new floors that were just installed are at least 2 shades lighter than the five month old floors. The company that installed the floors said they would darken naturally in about 3 months and would match the existing floors. Is this true? The floor installer said that if they did not darken in three months he could put another coat of polyurethane on the floors with a golden oak tint to darken the floors to match. Is this the correct approach to getting a match?

We have bought a condo in downtown Toronto. Our engineered “*****” hardwood floors are various colours where area rugs have been previously placed. Would your refinishing process be able to be used on this type of hardwood floor? How much would it cost for a room approximately 10 feet wide by 20 feet long?

I found your web site while searching out how to manually try and fix several pet stains my dog has made on my hardwood floors. I have floating hardwoods that I believe were put in on top of a tile floor. Unfortunately the dog has had a couple of accidents in his old age. There are three none bigger than the palm of your hand. I don’t want to have to replace the floor if not absolutely necessary (I’m not sure I could even find replacement boards since the floor was put in prior to my owning the house). Is there anything I can do cleaning wise to try and pull the stain out of the wood? I did read on your site one of you visitors tried hydrogen peroxide and was able to bleach the stain out of their wood but I’m not sure if that will work for a pre-finished floating floor systems. Do you have any suggestions?

My hardwood floors are coated with satin polyurethane. There was some latex paint on the surface and I used “Goof Off” paint remover to remove the paint. However, the areas I removed the paint are now a bit shiny and don’t blend in with the rest of the satin finish. Any suggestions on what to do to correct this?

I just had new red oak floors installed. They were stained with a natural stain, and then the first coat of water-based urethane applied. When the floors were dry and we inspected them, we noticed an area where the nail holes have bled black, and the end seams are black as well. What causes this, and what is the fix? Does the entire floor need to be re-sanded?

I recently removed 30 year old carpet from hardwood floors. I discovered some spots that were dark black (I am guessing pet stains). I applied hydrogen peroxide to them and after a few treatments, the black stains lifted and the wood was left white. I chemically stripped a 3 X 1 rectangle around the white spots so that application of stain would be even and not spotty. My problem is that the white spots in the wood are now not taking the stain as dark as the chemically stripped areas. Is there anything I can do?

I recently bought a 115 year-old house, remodelled within past 10 years, with wall to wall carpet. I ripped up the carpet on the second floor, with the intention on re-carpeting, only to find old 2 3/8″ wide strip pine floors in relatively decent condition. The carpet caused some yellow and oranging of the wood. I am now faced with needing to sand and stain (or not) these floors. This room is the TV room with floor to ceiling windows and access to the deck, so it gets sun and traffic. My hope is to put area rugs in the sitting area and at the door going outside. My questions are: Is sanding the best approach to this style pine floor? Also, is it better to leave the pine natural or attempt to stain? (I realised staining pine is a careful chore). My primary concerns are best looks for the resale of the house and durability in a high traffic and constantly sunlit room. I will be using a professional for this work.

I just had my hundred year old oak floors sanded, stained and polyed by my contractor. He cut the floors, which are either 12″x12″ square parquet or 2″ long planks, with a rented belt sander and used a hand held edger. The floors looked normal once sanded, with some scratches here and there, but good for their age. They looked normal after the stain as well, but once the ploy went down thin ridges appeared up and down the majority of the floors. Are these marks from the sander? Can the poly be buffed and screened or do we need to start over and use a finer grit to solve the problem? Also, on the new pine planks in another room, the poly appears scuffed and the stain appears noticeably lighter along two of the four walls.

I sanded my living floor over the last two days. Last night I scrubbed the floor to prepared for putting the finish on this morning. I woke up to a disaster. There are areas where the wood looks like it’s dotted in black. Also, a ring where the pale was. Would bleach help, or do I re-sand? Ugh, my back hurts.

I left a bucket with clothes cleaning solution on our maple floor. Now there is a dark ring on the floor. How do I get it out?

My boyfriend left a set of tires (don’t ask!) on his hardwood floor. There are now dark rings on the floor that will not come off with regular cleaning. Do you have a suggestion on how to get rid of these marks?

We recently had our pine hardwood floors sanded, stained, and poly’d. Along the perimeter of the walls (about 6 or 8″) or so, the stain is much lighter. There is a clearly seen demarcation. What is this due to? The contractor said it was from build up over the years of wax, etc. around the edges of the room. I was wondering if different sanding or staining techniques had caused this.