Q: I have older 2″ wide flooring on 1 x 6 sub flooring running diagonally on joists on a 2nd story. In one area, where a HVAC duct runs between joists, the sub floor has warped and dried out leaving a void in between the two. You can feel a soft spot when walking over it.
Q: We purchased a house that had small areas of incomplete wood flooring in three rooms. There are 3 or 4 rows in each room where the flooring is 2-4 inches short of the wall. Can this be repaired or do new boards need to be put in? And if so, would the color be …
Q: We’re buying a gut-reno’d home in Boston. We did a walkthrough to talk about some changes yesterday and found that the heater is malfunctioning. In the finished attic, the temp was 100+ degrees, and on the second floor, it was 90 degrees. It has been at this level for ~3 days. There are a few spots where shrinkage has happened (along with some separation of the moulding in some spots).
Q: I have 36 year old wide pine planks in my log home, 3 bedrooms worth. Many of the gaps have widened significantly (up to 3/8″). I picked out 35 years of gunk, grime, even money, and now have significant gaps that collect everything including making a highway system for the bugs.
Q: I had my oak floors refinished and requested Glitza, which was used. But between some floor boards where there are gaps the poly didn’t cover fully, so gaps are visible. Should I ask my flooring guy to come back?
Q imported from our old site, Face Lift Floors: I have a red oak HW floor that was installed in a new house the late summer of 2002. No gaps have developed anywhere in the entire house, save an 8ft run between two planks in the kitchen. The gap is 1/8th of an inch.
Q imported from our old site, Face Lift Floors: My only question for you now, is do you think that 1/16″ is a large gap?
A: I wouldn’t consider 1/16″ gap to be large, especially when viewed from the moon. But I don’t think I would want to have one any larger than that between any given boards in my floor.
Q imported from our old site, Face Lift Floors: I recently installed maple strip flooring (2 1/4 inch wide) and I am noticing that many of the boards seem to be developing cracks through the boards which are rough to the touch. The boards were placed in the room two weeks prior to installation. Any …
Q: I have 2 1/4″ white oak and 3 1/4″ wide clear maple planks that have a handful of splits along the long edges, that form spike-like splinters. These cracks are somewhat clean, but because they form a spike-like point, they are snagging and splinter hazards. Is there some way to ‘micro-glue’ them or at least reduce the snagging/splintering potential?
Q: I have an engineered hardwood floor and the relative humidity in my house is between 45 to 55%. The hardwood is within 2% of the subfloor moisture content. The installation was done by a reputable professional that I personally know and have seen his work over the past few years. The problem is in about 500 total square feet 30 or so boards have gradually exhibited minor chips and splinters, mainly on the edge, but a few in the center. Other than installation error could this be some type of product defect through milling or green wood not being cured properly?