Archive for the 'Gaps & Cracks' Category

Edges raising in centers of laminate boards

Wednesday, December 26th, 2007

We had a laminate floor fitted 6 months ago, and some edges in the center are raising slightly. Also, there are slight divisions becoming apparent in some areas. Is this expected or should I complain to the fitters?

Fill gaps with fiberglass?

Wednesday, December 5th, 2007

The contractor suggested we fill the gaps with fiberglass and re-sand after staining: is this practical? I’ve see you suggest a different kind of wood filler, but not fiberglass. Would fiberglass be a good solution? Another contractor suggested to use the same filler as I have today (probably just sawdust and glue), as he says the wood has already shrunk to the max, and it won’t come out… Can I trust him?

Would the cracks and small gaps show again?

Wednesday, September 5th, 2007

I have 2″ slat hardwood. Small gaps. I used 3 coats of B*** water based polyurethane 10 years ago. I would like to refinish the floor. I would like to use a thick high gloss like Marine varnish #13. Would the cracks and small gaps show again? If I put down enough coats, would the natural floor movement start the cracks between the slats again, or would it be a solid coat?

Gaps forming along walls, after DIY install

Friday, June 22nd, 2007

Recently I installed oak hardwood floors in my house. I used pneumatic nailer, but at the area close to walls I had to nail down manually, and I can see gaps between woods. How do I fix this problem?

Trying to fix iffy install job

Friday, June 8th, 2007

We are in the process of buying our first house and we have a couple questions about the floor. The previous owner put in some bamboo engineered hardwood flooring, but he didn’t do a very good job with the details (meeting toilets, sinks, trim, etc.), so we are thinking about trying to fix it. We think it’s a floating floor, but we’re not sure if it’s glued or glueless at the seams. Do you think it would be possible to take up the floor and put it back down? We’re going to carpet one room that currently has the hardwood, so we hope to use the wood from there as the extra we’ll need to fix the other rooms.

Cracking filler in gaps of poorly manufactured floor

Sunday, April 22nd, 2007

Our house has dark Brazilian Mahogany hardwood floors. Unbeknownst to me, last year, at the time of purchase, the floors ranged anywhere from 4 1/2 inches wide to 4 2/8 inches wide. Where the boards don’t match up, some kind of gap filler was used. However, over the course of the last year, the filler has been falling out of the gaps, leaving unsightly gaps in the boards, sometimes as wide as 2/8 of an inch. This has occurred particularly in the higher traffic areas, but it is occurring all over the main floor of the house. In addition, where the filler has not fallen out it has cracked, leaving zig-zag looking patterns in the filler. I am at a loss. Is there a product that can fill the gaps that have lost their filler? Will it prevent this problem in the future? Is it something that I can do?

When your wood flooring is defective

Wednesday, April 11th, 2007

We put in hardwood flooring 7 years ago, 460 sq. feet. Not too long after, I felt the floor was not standing up. I called the company [makers of the wood], and they did send someone in. He said they would only replace a few boards. We didn’t bother– we we’re unable to at the time.

More or heavier coats of finish can make blemishes more noticeable

Saturday, April 7th, 2007

My home was built in 1972 and I have a hardwood floor with narrow strips. I refinished the floor 10 years ago. Most of the floor has held-up well, but you see the cracks between the boards. Is it possible to use a heavy gloss finish like Marine finish #13 so the floor would appear solid? Or would the cracks reappear later?

Used filler at installation

Wednesday, March 28th, 2007

I had 6 inch knotted pine installed on a sub-floor in my new home. Is there any excuse for wood filler to be used to fill gaps in my floors up to 1/8 wide, other than faulty installation, or boards that were not plained before installation? I am being told it is because of moisture and expansion and contraction. My problem is, if they used filler at installation to cover these gaps, then the boards were never seated in the first place. Am I wrong? I am also being told that gaps the width of a nickel are normal. Is this rule of thumb true on brand new floor installations as well?

Gaps in parquet tiles

Wednesday, March 14th, 2007

I have parquet floors that I installed 4 years ago. The floor is scratched in some places, so I am going to sand the floor. My question is: is there anything that I can use to fill the spaces / gaps in the tiles?

Refinishing during the season boards shrink and gaps develop

Wednesday, March 14th, 2007

I have 3-4-5 inch wide red oak floors installed over radiant heat. Each year when the heat is turned on the boards shrink and gaps between the boards develop. I am planing on refinishing the floors. How can I get ride of the seasonal gaps? Will Timber Mate work as a solution for my problem? I would like to finish the floors with gloss finish.

What is a “wet fill”?

Friday, March 9th, 2007

What is a “wet fill”? I have 1/8″+ gaps between some of my boards. I’ve heard people talk about making a slurry or “wet fill” out of sawdust from the edger and polyurethane, or some kind of recipe like that, to fill the gaps with. Any idea what I’m talking about?

Refinishing while seasonal gaps are in wood floor

Friday, March 9th, 2007

I have 3-4-5 inch wide Red Oak floors installed over radiant heat. Each year when the heat is turned on the boards shrink and gaps between the boards develop. I am planing on refinishing the floors. How can I get ride of the seasonal gaps? Will Timber Mate work as a solution for my problem? I would like to finish the floors with gloss finish.

Gaps in laminate flooring

Monday, March 5th, 2007

I purchased a home a year ago that had laminate flooring in the living room. Everything was fine, until 1/8 inch gaps appeared suddenly at the ends of about 10 planks near the center of the floor. The gaps didn’t form along the grooved, long side of the plank, but rather at the ends of the planks. What would cause this and how can it be corrected?

Cracks

Wednesday, February 28th, 2007

I have a hard maple wood floor that’s 80 years old. The boards are 1 1/2″ wide and have shrunk from 1/32″ to 1/4″ inch. Is their a way to fill the cracks? Will it look natural when finished?

Gap in tongue and groove flooring

Friday, January 26th, 2007

I have a tongue and groove, relatively inexpensive, hardwood floor in my kitchen. A 3/4″ gap has appeared between ends of two of the pieces. How can I address this?

Dip in cement causing seam in laminate floor

Wednesday, January 17th, 2007

I installed a K****** laminate floor. There is a pretty nasty seam in the middle of the floor where the tongue and groove have pulled apart. The reason is that a slight dip in the cement floor that we considered insignificant during installation took a toll on that junction with all the traffic through the room. Is there a way to fix that seam without ripping up the entire floor?

Hairline cracks

Monday, December 11th, 2006

I just installed engineered Brazilian cherry throughout my 11-yr old house (5-1/4″ wide, 3/8″ thick). We are going thru our first Texan winter (close to freezing) and the floor is popping like chestnuts in an open fire. I got down on my knees and found hairline cracks developing on my floors. Did I just lose my floors?

Gaps

Wednesday, December 6th, 2006

I did bring in a professional hardwood floor sander/refinisher to finish the floor. It was only after the sanding and two coats of oil-based urethane were applied that I noticed and became concerned about the gaps between hardwood strips. I obviously had not checked closely before the refinishing began, so my mistake. I can only guess that being in this part of the province during the heating season, the humidity level was so low that the hardwood shrank appreciably.

Gap between threshold and floor

Thursday, October 12th, 2006

I just had engineered wood floor installed (glue down method), and there is a gap between the threshold of the front door and the wood planks in the house. The planks (yes, they’ve been floated) are not level with the brass/metal threshold of the front door, as there is a slight grade difference between the two surfaces. What is the best way to resolve?