Q: I have 2 1/4″ white oak and 3 1/4″ wide clear maple planks that have a handful of splits along the long edges, that form spike-like splinters. These cracks are somewhat clean, but because they form a spike-like point, they are snagging and splinter hazards. Is there some way to ‘micro-glue’ them or at least reduce the snagging/splintering potential? Continue reading Reducing snagging, splinter hazard from cracked planks
Q: I have an engineered hardwood floor and the relative humidity in my house is between 45 to 55%. The hardwood is within 2% of the subfloor moisture content. The installation was done by a reputable professional that I personally know and have seen his work over the past few years. The problem is in about 500 total square feet 30 or so boards have gradually exhibited minor chips and splinters, mainly on the edge, but a few in the center. Other than installation error could this be some type of product defect through milling or green wood not being cured properly? Continue reading Minor chips and splinters on floorboards
Q: Will mopping a hardwood floor with a damp mop close up cracks? Continue reading Will mopping a hardwood floor with a damp mop close up cracks?
Q: I am buying a house that has old hardwood floors that look great. There is an addition that is newer and the hardwood is installed on a concrete slab. There are some gaps between the boards (the short sides), some as big as about 1/2 inch. The boards are not nailed down due to the concrete. The seller had a guy come out and look at it and he wouldn’t put putty in because he said it would look awful. Continue reading Gaps in glued down floor in high humidity climate
Q: We moved into a home 2 years ago. The previous owner had installed hardwood strip flooring throughout the main level. The flooring may be about 8-12 years old. We noticed that thin, long slivers of the flooring are constantly popping up and coming off between strips, leaving a crevice about 1/8′ wide, and in some places as long as 2′. Continue reading Thin, long slivers of the flooring coming off
Q: We installed a 5″ select white, glued and nailed, unfinished oak. The subfloor 11%. The material 10.2% finished with stain and LNL 1500. On installation the floor was tight and now there are visible gaps the size of a nickel. Can this floor be sanded, re-hydrated, and finished? If so, what process would you suggest? Continue reading Gaps the size of a nickel after installation
Q: I just had 890 sq. feet of A——— Hardwood floor installed in my house. They delivered it and started install the same day. The workers installed all 890 SQ. in two days. The same night I notice my socks getting caught on some planks. I then saw many boards that began to crack up the middle and along the sides where joined. Continue reading Splits and boards cracking up the middle
Q: My house has wide pine floors and several of them have partially split along the long side, right next to the gap from an adjacent board. I am afraid of one of these splits breaking off completely. I am unsure how best to repair this. Continue reading Adhesive for splits breaking off wide pine floors?
Q: I have maple hardwood flooring in my foyer. One of the boards has a small split and has a small piece that catches on the swiffer when cleaned. What can I do to prevent this from getting worse? Would be hard to replace a center piece about 3″x18″? Any kind of sealer or wax that might hold the splinter in place to prevent it from breaking off? Continue reading Sealer or wax that might hold a splinter in place?
Q: I had my 225 year old heart pine floors refinished (sanded, caulked and finished with water base satin finish). The job was done two weeks before HVAC was turned on. I now have noticeable cracks at some joints. My contractor says that it is because the HVAC was turned on causing the wood to dry thereby causing cracks. The floors have been in this environment for 25 years. What is your opinion? Continue reading Cracks at some joints after HVAC was turned on