WoodFlooringGuy.com

I’d like to put in White Oak throughout 3 bedrooms, a dining room, a hall and foyer. What would that cost, in Toronto? I want HARD wood that’s dog friendly. If something cheaper is actually better, that would be nice.

We just bought a 1950’s home with all original hardwood floors. They were covered in carpet and still in pristine shape. We’re in the process of remodleing the home, which includes moving several walls and expanding off the back of the house. We really want to save as much of the wood as we can and reuse it in the main part of the house. Prior to construction starting we want to pull up all the floors. Is this possible without damaging them so that we can relay them once the house is complete?

We installed a floating floor over marble tile in a bar. Now there is about a 1 5/8 transition from this new floating floor to another part of the bar which was hardwood. Who could we consult about the transition? People are tripping over it.

I am interested in getting hardwood flooring for the main floor of our house. This is the main walkway through the house, so durability is key. We also have a large dog! Any suggestions?

I have a client that wants a nail down floor (5 inch cherry). but also wants a sound barrier. From reading through your site, most of the suggestions involve floating or glue down floors. I was wondering if you have any suggestions in regards to nail down floors?

What is the best way to lay hardwood on a floor next to a carpeted floor? Do you lay the planks butted up to the carpet? How do you get it to look finished?

If I am installing a floating floor (engineered), and at my transition, using a fixed transition with a tongue and groove joint: is it ever acceptable to glue the flooring into the tongue and groove and allow the floor to grow the opposite direction of the fixed transition?

I had 6 inch knotted pine installed on a sub-floor in my new home. Is there any excuse for wood filler to be used to fill gaps in my floors up to 1/8 wide, other than faulty installation, or boards that were not plained before installation? I am being told it is because of moisture and expansion and contraction. My problem is, if they used filler at installation to cover these gaps, then the boards were never seated in the first place. Am I wrong? I am also being told that gaps the width of a nickel are normal. Is this rule of thumb true on brand new floor installations as well?

I just bought unfinished Brazilian Walnut, 5″ wide. How much color variation should it have? Should there be greens and yellows and red, along with the browns? Is it customary to stain it darker if there are too many color variations?

My home is located in the Kansas City area. I am currently in the process of finishing the basement. My wife would like to have hardwood floors. My main concerns in using a wood floor is moisture, the cold feel, and losing headroom from a built-up floor. I intended to use a subfloor material and install a floating engineered wood floor on the subfloor. I am considering two products to use as a subfloor for the wood floors. The two products are Delta FL (www.deltafl.com) and DRIcore (www.dricore.com). Both products are similar in that they use high density polyethylene (HDPE) as the vapor barrier. The major difference is the DRIcore product a 5/8” wafer board attached to the HDPE and per the Delta FL website, the wood floor can be installed directly on the HDPE. Do you have any experience with these products? Which product do you recommend or is there a better method?

I want to install a floating floor system in my kitchen, and I already have linoleum in there. Do I need to remove the linoleum, or can the floating floor go over it? If so, can the linoleum act as the underlayment?

I would like to install a new kitchen floor. This floor butts up against a hardwood floor. How do I transition to keep all floors the same height? Do I have to remove the existing kitchen floor to make it even?

What is the difference between folk grade and provincial grade?

We have a wood floor covered in a cement slush which is about an inch thick. We want to go over the cement since it has asbestos glue on the cement. The two contractors we’ve spoken to are encouraging us to put down plywood and then solid hardwood on top of that. We are also considering putting down a floating engineered floor with a sizable veneer. Which would you recommend?

We own an older home with uneven floors. We are interested in hardwood floors, but we do not know how to level the existing flooring, which is mismatched softwood narrow planks.

I am planning to get either hardwood or laminate floors in my townhouse. On the stairs from the foyer up to the first floor, and on the first floor (approximately 200 square feet). What I was wondering is: do I have to completely remove all my furniture from the first floor before I have the floors installed? There is a kitchen with ceramic tiles, which I have not decided if I will get done or not. Obviously the smaller furniture (bookcases, small chair, small tables, etc.) I can move, but I also have a larger TV, a larger chair, and a heavy queen size sofa bed. Would this all have to be moved out?

I’m installing some hardwood flooring. I am going around a corner and transitioning the strips together (L pattern), but I’m ending up with groove to groove at the corner. Do they make a double sided tongue, or can I just nail the groove ends down?

We own a small condo on Cape Cod. It’s ground level, built years ago with a concrete slab floor. We wish to replace the wall to wall rug with hardwood flooring. How do we go about this?

We are placing pergo flooring on on a 24×24 foot area. The floor is not level all over. There is about a half inch variance on the out area of floor. It seems to be a big job to level whole area. what would happen if we put in the flooring without levelling the whole floor?

We are installing 1400 sq. feet of 3/4″ X 5″ wide maple prefinished flooring. Would you recommend using a stapler or nailer?