WoodFlooringGuy.com

We are in the process of buying our first house and we have a couple questions about the floor. The previous owner put in some bamboo engineered hardwood flooring, but he didn’t do a very good job with the details (meeting toilets, sinks, trim, etc.), so we are thinking about trying to fix it. We think it’s a floating floor, but we’re not sure if it’s glued or glueless at the seams. Do you think it would be possible to take up the floor and put it back down? We’re going to carpet one room that currently has the hardwood, so we hope to use the wood from there as the extra we’ll need to fix the other rooms.

We just bought a 1950’s home with all original hardwood floors. They were covered in carpet and still in pristine shape. We’re in the process of remodleing the home, which includes moving several walls and expanding off the back of the house. We really want to save as much of the wood as we can and reuse it in the main part of the house. Prior to construction starting we want to pull up all the floors. Is this possible without damaging them so that we can relay them once the house is complete?

My wife had 3/8″ ***** (cheaper) engineered hardwood installed in a bedroom, but it was laid with the joists, instead of across. I am now putting in the same product in another bedroom and hallway and will be laying it perpendicular. Can I remove and re-lay the before mentioned bedroom without ruining it? I think it was stapled.

I have just salvaged nearly 800 square feet of red oak flooring. Many pieces have had their tongue or groove cut off where the planking has met the wall. Still other pieces were installed butted end to end with the tongue or groove removed (they were probably salvaged and reinstalled years ago). All in all, the floors seemed to hold up well and really did not look too bad. My question is this, should the ends be run through a router to restore the tongues or grooves before installing?

We obtained about 500 sq. ft of maple gymnasium flooring that we want to refinish and install in our cabin. The flooring is probably 50 years old or more and has been heavily waxed, and it looks as though there may be a shellac finish under that. We had to dismantle the flooring but we are at a loss as to the best way of taking the finish down to the bare wood, removing the old gym lines, and then refinishing.

We have original approx. 2 inch oak floors in dining and living room. Now that we have opened up our kitchen, we want to rip out linoleum and extend the oak. Is this possible to match the boards?

We`ve just recently bought a house dated somewhere around the early 1900`s, After removing the 30 year old carpet and the 40+ year old tiles we discovered the original hardwood floors underneath. The tiles seem to have been laid with some sort of tar or tar paper under them. Is there anyway to remove the tar or what ever it is on the floor without destroying the hardwood and what is the best thing to finish them with?
Also, in the dinning room under the carpet they laid over top of the hardwood floors there is plywood nailed down on top of the hardwood. Question #2 Is there some way of removing the plywood and refinishing the floor without destroying it by removing the plywood,and will the nailholes be evident or is there some way of filling in the nailholes so they wont be seen?

We recently were able to salvage 500/700 s/f of maple flooring from our local school that was being torn down to build a new one. The question is, is there a tool to remove the build up that accumulated between the joints in the floor. For the last 30 years the floor was covered by carpet. This stuff is like concrete. The floor was originally put down in the 1900’s. the boards are 13/16 thick and just under 2-3/4 wide. I would prefer not to have the T and G remilled, do they make a special scraper for T and G.

Hi, we are placing a used 3/4″ clear southern yellow pine tongue and groove floor down. It was actually used on a wall and we are putting it on our floor. It has been impossible to line all the previous nail holes with the joists or even with each other - I finally gave up on that. There are several widths from 5 1/4″ to 14″. It is in great shape except there is a little cupping here and there. We have a couple of questions - what is the best way to tighten the cupped boards.