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After 3-4 months I noted each plank developing a ridge lengthwise, and today it is quite pronounced. It can be felt underfoot. I have called the manufacturer. The rep came and did tests. He said it may be from the air being too dry although my barometer said 30%. I have a humidifier, but do not have it on now. The problem is worsening although rep said it will be better in summer, but not so far. The manufacturer rep said he would get back to me, but it has been over a month so I doubt it. The installer has referred to manufacturer. What can I do as I do not want a floor with these ridges and warranty is out end of June?

White pine floor, 3 coats of poly… The last coat has not hardened, and it has been almost two weeks. It’s dry on top, but the poly is still soft. When you turn your foot on it tears up. Should it take that long or longer to harden? What if I heat the room for a few days? It has been 60-75 degrees during the day and 35-55 at night for the last 2 weeks.

I have plans on installing 3/4 inch hardwood flooring over 5/8 inch OSB subfloor. Would this be okay? If not, why not? Also, if not, what should I do to correct this aside from pulling up the entire subfloor?

The extractives in exotic woods are known to cause drying delays, adhesion failures, and soft cure in the seal and finish coats.

Cold weather is upon us again, the following are some tips to help your finish perform to its maximum efficiency.

What are the most important factors contributing to proper drying of a finish?

The viscosity of the finish is critical to good finish application. The single biggest factor which influences the viscosity of the finish is temperature

Gym floor covers should never be used on a freshly finished floor until at least three weeks after the last coat of finish has been applied. For complete curing, the finish surface must be exposed to oxygen in the ambient air. Covering the floor during this process would deny the finish of oxygen needed to complete the reaction. This may result in a partially cured coating with poor physical properties.

Do not use pre-treated dust mops or floor cleaners that contain wax, paraffin, silicone, or mineral oil. Use of these products can cause adhesion problems when recoating the floor. Never use power scrubbers or automatic floor cleaning machines that disperse water on the floor…

Streaking is caused by the dragging and subsequent poor dispersion of the silica (flattening agent) in the polyurethane finish. These areas of varying concentrations of silica can cause areas of high and low gloss. Stop marks are a result of the silica being deposited on the floor after lifting an applicator. Lap lines occur when the finish does not properly flow and blend into a smooth film… An increasing number of contractors are successfully using rollers.

Polyballs are beads of paint or finish which protrude from cracks in floors when the moisture content (MC) of the wood rises, causing the cracks to close up. Paint polyballs are a bad problem, as they can be smeared over the rest of the floor, possibly requiring screening or even recoating.

Poloplaz recommends using the Hardwood Floor Cleaner on a daily basis.

I am purchasing a home and don’t know which is the best, most durable wood to choose. I worry about wear and tear over the years. What is the best way to maintain wood floors before you have to change it, or not? I don’t love too much grain in the floor, that is why I prefer maple; but is Black Cherry, Maple or Walnut better? If I have to choose oak due to cost, should 3/4″ size or more be better? What about staining the oak? I was told that staining is not good. I thought that all wood had to be stained to achieve all the various colors that are available. What then is “natural hardwood” without staining, but in a darker color?