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I’m installing 3/4″ flooring in hallways. There are 2 steps down into the front room. I’m not quite sure how to install the stair nose pieces, one of which will be parallel to the rest of the planks, and one perpendicular. One of my concerns is that beneath the stairnose is drywall, so I think I need to cut out a strip of drywall and install a piece of wood there to make it stronger under the stair nose. I thought about a 1×2, but I’m wondering if I should use 1×4 instead. Do you have any advice as to how I deal with the perpendicular end? I think the stair nose needs to go on last, but I’m concerned about how I make sure the planks end where they need to and that they’re square to the stair nose. Maybe the better question is: how do I start the first strip in the hallway, to make sure the stair nose will tie in correctly when I’m done with the planks?

Before I hire… Is there any way I can “tell” if the job done may be good or bad?

I just stained pine hardwood floors, and didn’t get all the glue cleaned up. It looks horrible. How do I remove the glue before I put the finishing coats on? I tried sanding, but it didn’t work.

I have a floor on which a customer put 3 oil based coats. The customer wants to know if I can buff and coat the floor with a water based finish. Is this okay to do? Will it dry right?

We have had no problem with expansion of the wood tiles butted up against the ceramic in this room. Should we expect an expansion problem in the living room where all four wood tile edges will be butted up against ceramic tile? We would rather not use transitions around this for obvious reasons. Are there installation tips that could help us in installing the oak parquet and minimize potential expansion problems?

Our house has engineered hardwood floors, and an open stair case (no risers). We would like to install solid slabs, and add risers. What would you recommend for risers? Is solid slab engineered hardwood (for this application) available?

We recently had ***** ******* ****** laminate installed in our home. It always seems to look dull and show prints. We are noticing scuff marks appearing, as well as scratches. Is there anything we can do? Is there any type of scuff repair on the market?

I would question using “shellac” as a seal coat. It contains a natural wax which will not allow adhesion of other top coats. There are de-waxed shellac products that offer better results. Zinsser universal sealer or Dura Seal Universal Sealer are good choices. Good adhesion on both sides of the shellac.

We’ve decided to put a 3/4″ hardwood floor over 3/4″ plywood, on top of a cement floor. Our problem is that by doing this we are going to lose a lot of height off our base boards, and they will look substantially dwarfed. Our walls are newly painted and an installer told us that we can’t take off the base boards without damaging the walls above. New baseboards would hide damage 3″ above existing base boards, but apparently the damage done to the walls is higher up.