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I have 3-4-5 inch wide red oak floors installed over radiant heat. Each year when the heat is turned on the boards shrink and gaps between the boards develop. I am planing on refinishing the floors. How can I get ride of the seasonal gaps? Will Timber Mate work as a solution for my problem? I would like to finish the floors with gloss finish.

I have oak hardwood floors that were covered in the 70’s with vinyl type tiles. They laid a type of tar paper over the hardwood flooring. the tiles were then glued to the tar paper. The tiles come up very easily, but the tar paper doesn’t. In some areas the tar just peels up with light pressure from a putty knife. How can I safely remove the rest without damaging the floors?

My question would be that of using acrylic urethane rather than oil based urethane. Would using an oil based urethane have caused the ‘peeling’ that has occurred? We were advised to use oil based urethane. When two/three coats dried, the ‘ink’ like stain is coming up with a wipe of a rag and/or if you touch it. Basically the stain is somehow trapped. Any advice? This is the best way I know how to explain.

I have removed a wall dividing the sitting room from the dinning room. What is the best way to extend the hard wood floor to the dinning room, and maintain the same texture of the floor?

I am planning to get either hardwood or laminate floors in my townhouse. On the stairs from the foyer up to the first floor, and on the first floor (approximately 200 square feet). What I was wondering is: do I have to completely remove all my furniture from the first floor before I have the floors installed? There is a kitchen with ceramic tiles, which I have not decided if I will get done or not. Obviously the smaller furniture (bookcases, small chair, small tables, etc.) I can move, but I also have a larger TV, a larger chair, and a heavy queen size sofa bed. Would this all have to be moved out?

If my hardwood floors were installed poorly…. My hardwood is glued directly to concrete, no vapor barrier, and there is no 1/2″ gap between floor and wall. How much moisture is needed to cause cupping, or worse, buckling?

My upper level floor is my main level ceiling (craftsman style home). I did it wrong, and I have already finished the ceilings of the main floor. How can I finish the upper level floor without the finish dripping down on the main level ceilings? Can I completely seal the upper floor in any way, so that any spills from above will not drip to below?

We have 8 wooden chairs with rush seating. They were left on a covered porch in the rain and a serious mildew(ing) occurred. I have cleared the problem with a 15% bleach/85% water solution and they are looking very good. My next move will be to soak them with a mildew-resistant sealer, but first I would like to apply some type of conditioner/moisturizer. Do you have any suggestions? The actual rush seems to be a natural fabric. Someone suggested using tongue oil as the conditioner before the sealer is applied. What do you think?

We are considering having our natural (no stain) red oak flooring (3/4″ thick) refinished with a dark stain and 3 coats of premium oil urethane. We have been told that a dark stain will show scratches (from the dog), and marks far more than the current natural floor does, and that we will always be touching up the scratches (if that’s even possible to do.) What is your experience with dark stained floors and wearing capabilities?

What is a “wet fill”? I have 1/8″+ gaps between some of my boards. I’ve heard people talk about making a slurry or “wet fill” out of sawdust from the edger and polyurethane, or some kind of recipe like that, to fill the gaps with. Any idea what I’m talking about?

I’m installing some hardwood flooring. I am going around a corner and transitioning the strips together (L pattern), but I’m ending up with groove to groove at the corner. Do they make a double sided tongue, or can I just nail the groove ends down?

My question is about hardwood flooring finish, satin vs. glossy: which of these floor finishes show more scratches, smudges, dirt, etc.?

We own a small condo on Cape Cod. It’s ground level, built years ago with a concrete slab floor. We wish to replace the wall to wall rug with hardwood flooring. How do we go about this?

How many carriages are necessary to support a 1″ thick beech or oak tread? I’d like to replace my carpeted stairs. I ripped up a few and found there are only 2 carriages supporting the edges of the treads. Is it necessary to have a third carriage in the centre for the new 1″ tread?

Can I put a satin polyurethane over a smi gloss finish, on a hardwood floor?

We are placing pergo flooring on on a 24×24 foot area. The floor is not level all over. There is about a half inch variance on the out area of floor. It seems to be a big job to level whole area. what would happen if we put in the flooring without levelling the whole floor?

I have 3-4-5 inch wide Red Oak floors installed over radiant heat. Each year when the heat is turned on the boards shrink and gaps between the boards develop. I am planing on refinishing the floors. How can I get ride of the seasonal gaps? Will Timber Mate work as a solution for my problem? I would like to finish the floors with gloss finish.

How do I remove engineered wood floors that are glued directly to a slab?

We are installing 1400 sq. feet of 3/4″ X 5″ wide maple prefinished flooring. Would you recommend using a stapler or nailer?

I am thinking of putting hardwood on the entire second floor of my house. Should I be concerned about the weight of either the solid or engineered floor? Will this cause problem to the structure of my house?