WoodFlooringGuy.com

I’m installing oak treads on a previously carpeted stairway (3 stairs). Is it the unforgivable sin to screw these down, countersink and plug holes? I’m afraid finishing nails will lift over time. Obviously, I won’t forget the glue.

I purchased some oak hardwood flooring. I used an orbital sander on the floor. It’s a pretty small area. I do not notice any scratches on the floor. I’m wondering if this will suffice for me to start staining.

I have been using “X” wet mop for about two bottles of cleaner’s worth. This came recommended to me. There is now a streaky residue on my floors that I would like to remove. The residue is also causing other aesthetic problems. What is the best way to remove the residue? Rest assured the wet mop has swiftly left the area. I would not recommend this product to anyone, even though it seemed great for the first several applications.

I have an old house (80+) with 2″ boards on the ground and second floors. Much of it is in poor condition (gouges, gaps, nails that pop up, etc.) What is the cost involved in removing and relaying new hardwood?

We are purchasing a house. There are two areas in the kitchen that look like the the finish has come off the hardwood floors. It appears to be a little water damage / high traffic areas. Someone suggested maybe spot sanding and putting a water base over it, that there might be slight discoloration for a while, but it should work just fine. Is this the best solution or is it better to replace the floor boards and restain, or replace all the hardwood in the main room? The spots are about 2 x 2 feet.

Which of these two hardwood floor cleaners is better or are they comparable: Basic Coatings Squeaky Clean or Bonakemi cleaner?

What is the difference between folk grade and provincial grade?

My house now 93 yrs. old. I’m finally getting to the floor, 3/4 maple, no sub floor, nailed with what looks like masonry nails- 2 1/4 inch. some gaps are between board lengths. should they be screwed down to prevent movement, recessed, and filled (screw holes/or pegged)? Most knots are still intact. Is it worth considering scrapping by hand to preserve the look? Perhaps machine scrapping? Is “**** *** ****” a finish that is familiar to you? I think it is a polyurethane. What finish do you recommend?

We are interested in having oak treads installed on our existing (carpeted) staircase, then installing a carpet runner up the middle of the new treads. I obtained two bids. The first company stated that after removing the existing pine tread nosing, they would then mortise the stringers above the existing treads, into which the new oak tread would be installed (they said there would be a small gap in stringer above tread that would need to be caulked/puttied and painted). They said they would install quarter round molding along the back of the tread where it meets bottom of riser. The second company said the they would simply customer cut and fit the new oak tread and that there would be no need for the molding in the back (or puttying on the sides). They did say they would install a piece of molding underneath the new oak nosing (no mention of this by first company). They also said they would install a thin piece of poplar over the existing risers so they could be painted (where they will be exposed on the outsides of the runner) to match the stringers. This second company said they didn’t even know what kind of tool could make the mortise cut into the stringers, which the first company said they would do. Both companies are reputable (first one installed our hardwood floor originally). Any thoughts? Also, since our stringers are currently painted white, do you agree that the risers should be painted to match rather than have oak installed over them?

What is the very best finish for hardwood floors that you can get? One that resists traffic flow wear, scratches, pet markings, etc.?

We have a wood floor covered in a cement slush which is about an inch thick. We want to go over the cement since it has asbestos glue on the cement. The two contractors we’ve spoken to are encouraging us to put down plywood and then solid hardwood on top of that. We are also considering putting down a floating engineered floor with a sizable veneer. Which would you recommend?

I have wood floors that have been refinished, stained and sealed with a polyurethane top coat. The poly has started to flake and is also dull. Is there a product I can use to revive the poly and reseal without having to sand it completely and reapply?

We own an older home with uneven floors. We are interested in hardwood floors, but we do not know how to level the existing flooring, which is mismatched softwood narrow planks.

I am in the process of having my wood floors redone. I am getting different opinions about finishes from each refinisher that I have questioned. Some have recommended 2 coats of gloss for durability, and finish with a 3rd coat of semi-gloss. Another refinisher said there is no difference in durability between gloss and semi-gloss. He insists that 3 coats of semi-gloss will be just as durable as 2 gloss, 1 semi. Who is right?

I have parquet floors that I installed 4 years ago. The floor is scratched in some places, so I am going to sand the floor. My question is: is there anything that I can use to fill the spaces / gaps in the tiles?

I recently had my hardwood floors redone. I noticed that my kitchen (which is pine) shows even slight scratch marks. You can make a scratch by running your fingernail across it. I have a small dog, about 5 pounds, and his nails leave marks. Is this normal? I know the rest of my floors are oak and stained lighter, and I do not seem to notice this problem with them.

We just installed N**** Floor Planks and parquet in our basement. We stained the wood and put dead flat finish as topcoat. It was 99% done, when some hairline cracks appeared, there were around 10 at first, but as the days progressed it multiplied. We sanded those parts and re-applied the top coat, but a day later, the cracks resurface and expanded? Is there a remedy? I am based in the Philippines.

I rearranged my bedroom, which has hardwood flooring. The dressers left scuff marks from me moving them. How do I get rid of the scuff marks?

I have stairs with pickets. I assume from the other questions that I have to take those up and put them back when done. Is it OK to just glue down the hard wood and use no nails, and if not, is it OK to nail in engineered planks? I also assume it would be better to use urethane rather than dry tack, correct? Also, the side of the stairs is exposed. For now I plan on wrapping stair nosing around it also, but that’s a lot of work. Is there something else you recommend I do for the exposed side?

Is there a product that will remove pet urine stains (black discolouration), which were found beneath carpet underlay? The floors are 51 year old oak hardwood, and large areas of the dining and living room are affected.