Archive for February, 2007

Bleeding stain

Monday, February 12th, 2007

I recently sanded my white oak floors and used a Duraseal quick dry stain. After wiping the floor diligently and leaving it dry for 3 hrs., I returned to apply the first coat of waterborne finish. There was some bleeding of stain between boards which I wiped before applying finish. After this first coat of finish dried, I noticed more bleeding and it seemed to get worse. Can I fix this without resanding the entire floor?

Screw holes and gouges

Monday, February 12th, 2007

I have a 1948 river cottage with beautiful pine floors. When I purchased the property the kitchen had two vinyl tile floors, one on top of the other, which I removed and covered with 1/2 inch plywood then a sheet of vinyl.The property became a rental for about 3 years. Now, I want to remove the sheet of vinyl and plywood and refinish the kitchen floor. My concern is that I used 1-1/2 inch fine thread sheet rock screws to hold the plywood down and that when I go to refinish the floors I will have 100 small screw holes throughout. I also chunked the floor up pretty bad in some places when removing the old vinyl tile floor, It was held down with the old black tar like adhesive. Is there anything I can do to hide the 60-100 screw holes? How about the chunking I did with a chisel like tools? Maybe I could take pine boards from under the kitchen cabinets?

Cleaning up sawdust

Monday, February 12th, 2007

We are building a house and put down pre-finished hardwood floors. The builder set a table saw on cardboard on our floors and has been cutting the trim and woodwork. There is sawdust everywhere on my floors and in the cracks. Will the saw dust harm my wood floors? What is the easiest way to remove it?

Cutting back the nosings

Monday, February 12th, 2007

I’ve taken carpet off stairs and am preparing to lay oak on treads and oak veneer on risers. I plan to leave spruce stringers and just repaint them. But I can see that when I cut back the existing nosings of about 1 3/8″ to be flush with riser there will be an ugly gap and rough edge of the existing nosing in the stringer where I cut the nosing back, which will not be fully covered by new solid oak nosing. If I simply sand, wood fill this, and then paint over it, will that work or is there a better technique? Also, what’s the best power tool to use to cut back the nosings so I can get in tight to the stringers?

Grime in the grooves

Monday, February 12th, 2007

We have prefinished wood floors. My wife dust mops the floors every week and damp mops monthly. The normal grooves/cracks between the floors collect dust and show. One has to use a toothpick to clean it out. Any better suggestion on a product that will clean out the grooves?

Cleaning up old floor that can’t tolerate another sanding

Monday, February 12th, 2007

I have very dark, distressed oak Cherokee Cabin Strip Flooring. We put it in 30 years ago and it still looks good. The distressed finish was great. I was able to easily fix gouges (kids, dragging furniture,etc.) However, after all these years, I would like to clean and refinish them. They don’t need total refinishing, just sprucing up a bit. I’ve always used DuraFinish colored liquid wax on them. Any suggestions as to how to do this project?

Waterlox

Monday, February 12th, 2007

As for Waterlox, the top 5 ingredients in each can are:
Mineral Spirits
Specially Processed tung oil
Ester gum
Phenolic resin
Specially Processed Linseed Oil
It is not a pure tung oil finish. However, cooking the oil does not make tung oil “impure”. When it is heated it is called polymerized tung oil. this process helps the oil […]

Should quarter round be white or the color of the wood?

Friday, February 9th, 2007

I am having hardwood floors installed. Should the quarter round be white or the color of the wood?

Is it red or white oak?

Friday, February 9th, 2007

I have bought a home with hardwoods in 90% of the home. I need to add hardwood flooring that matches as closely as possible in one room. However, I’m not sure if it’s red or white oak. With the stained floor, it’s hard for me to judge which wood is currently installed. Any suggestions?

Every coat of poly makes floor shine more?

Friday, February 9th, 2007

I asked if it would be possible to put a coat of the satin on top. I think he is willing to do this, but he says that every coat added makes a floor shinier, by it’s nature. Is that true?

Getting boards on the straight and narrow path

Monday, February 5th, 2007

I am installing some new 5/8″ hard wood floors, glue down over concrete. My home has a large floor plan and a large island in the kitchen, while meeting up around the island I noticed the 2 pieces had a slight gap. Unfortunately, I noticed this after the panel was down. I would like to rip down the existing piece to continue in a straight path, and sort of hide the mistake. Do you recommend I do this with a skill saw or router with a straight edge in place as a guide? Any other suggestions?

Hardwax oil finish

Monday, February 5th, 2007

Are you familiar with O*** P**** oil? How does it compare to Waterlox? I really like the look and benefits (easily repairable) of a hardwax oil finish. It seems technology has made even this type of floor low maintenance.

Black stains not fully sanding out

Monday, February 5th, 2007

We have discovered many black stains on the hard wood floors after we pulled out the carpet. We tried to sand them out. While some got lighter, others did not. There seemed to be a smell of urine during the sanding, so I’m assuming that these stains may be from pets. Is there anyway to get these black stains out?

Wood floor pops in winter

Monday, February 5th, 2007

We had engineered oak hardwood glued down to our concrete subfloor in the lower level of our backsplit. It was done by a flooring company. They said the glue would allow the wood to float. It has been in 3 years and the only problem is that in the winter there are certain parts of the floor that pop when you walk on them. It is not in all areas and only happens in the winter. During the warmer months I don’t notice any play in the floor. The edges of the strips are not buckling. Is this something that we should worry about?

Cracks in concrete slab foundation

Monday, February 5th, 2007

I have just tore out about 600 sq. ft. of 1/2″ engineered hardwood oak flooring due to moisture problems. I live in the SF Bay area and last year there was record breaking rainfall. My foundation is concrete slab throughout, which I found out has multiple cracks up to 1/4 wide. No movement problems. I did have drainage problems, which I have corrected. My question is, what is the best available crack filler material to ensure these cracks do not come back to haunt me? I am a DIY type of person. I do plan installing new 1/2″ engineered flooring once I get the foundation properly prepped. Also, what is the best surface sealer available?

Termite damage in crawlspace

Monday, February 5th, 2007

I recently inspected a 50 year old house with original red oak flooring. Extensive termite damage was found in the crawlspace. Some of the 1×6 pine subfloor was severely damaged (crumbling). Except for a few small areas the finished oak floor was in good condition. What is the best way to repair/replace the subfloor? Do we have to tear up the finish oak? Can the repair be done from underneath in 2-4 ft.height crawlspace? Do we need new subfloor between the 1 1/2inch floor joist and the finish oak? Can we just sister on ledger strips to the existing floor joist (treated) and add new subfloor between the floor joist?

Voids and splintering

Monday, February 5th, 2007

I’m restoring a century old owner-built adobe with worn *** wood floors. There is no subfloor, just 2×8 floor joists 20 in O.C. resting on crude shimmed up piers, but solid. The flooring is 3/4 inch, pine I think (soft). It was covered most of its life but was probably of poor quality originally. The way it was sawn caused unusual wear patterns the entire length of a few of the boards, where the wood easily splinters and chips, naturally with the wood grain. I want to preserve this floor but how? It has no finish, no nothing, just old wood (and quite dry). How much will sanding help? What should I use to fill the voids? Due to the nature of the wear, some patches will be long, but very thin, almost a veneer. Could multiple coats of polyurethane fill these smaller voids and protect the floor from splintering? Can I oil or otherwise condition the wood first?

Refinishing a 115 year old painted pine floor

Monday, February 5th, 2007

I’m refinishing a 115 year old pine floor and getting a little desperate! I’ve already managed to sand and scrape off several generations of paint and reached the bare wood and my first coat of oil-based poly has dried.

Adhesive spilt on carpet

Monday, February 5th, 2007

We put down wood flooring and some of the adhesive was accidentally dropped on the carpet. How do we get the adhesive out of the carpet? Do you have a solution?

Black stains did not come out when sanded

Monday, February 5th, 2007

I just had older Oak floors refinished. They are approximately 40 years old. There were black stains in the hall way that would not come out when sanded. We kept the floor stain the same as the original but the black stains look horrible. Would you suggest restaining the floors a darker color so the darker stains won’t show as much? We are in the process of fixing up this house to sell.