WoodFlooringGuy.com

We are looking at purchasing an engineered hardwood floor for our kitchen - maple / graphite dark grey. I was told by a someone that dark grey stains don’t wear as well as they don’t penetrate as deep as other “lighter” stains. Is this true?

How do I install the laminate around the spindles? Do I notch it? Then continue laminating on the other side of the railing to the dropoff and finish it with bullnose on the edge? Then quarter round the expansion gaps around each spindle and banister?Or can I remove the whole banister, and mount and anchor through the laminate into the sub for each spindle and banister?

we are redoing oak hardwood floors in a 1959 bungalow. When we do this we will be removing a small floating closet that will have nails through the floor. How do we remove the black marks from around the nail holes before we fill them?

I have a main floor with prefinished maple hardwood. The floor has quite a few scratches from dogs. We are selling the house in the next year and would like to repair it, as cost effectively as possible. If you could explain our options that would be greatly appreciated.

We just removed carpet/pad and subfloor (particle board subfloor) to see a painted( flat white paint) original fir floor. There was mold/mildew in all 3 layers (rug to subfloor) and it still smells 2 weeks later after being sprayed with straight white vinegar, cleaned with simple green, and then sprayed with tea tree oil and water mix. Is the floor salvageable? Is there anything that will take the odor away? We’ve scraped patches of the paint off and the smell is in the wood as well.

How do I get burn marks off my wood floors? They are from cigarettes. I don’t want to get floors redone for a few little spots.

I have laminated flooring. We scratched it during Christmas. Is there any way to remove the scratch without having the floor replaced?

I am looking for a charcoal/titanium laminate floor color. Please let me know if you have anything like this and we will discuss options later.

What would cause air bubbles to be in a hardwood floor?

I have a beautiful home with hardwood floors. I also have 4 young boys who have made marks and dull streaks, and scratches from toys. What can I do, that isn’t too expensive, to make my floor look like new again?

I have vintage flooring, jatoba, with an aluminum oxide finish. When a contractor was working in the house the other day, he scratched one of my boards with a pretty long 6″ scratch that is highly visible during the day. Is there a way to buff this out? I tried to apply a stain pen but it won’t take the stain. Any suggestions?

I have a four year old house with a basement in NC. The first floor is all hardwood. Probably nailed down. For the past month, there are these loud popping sound that seems to come from the floor every once in a while, but only at night, after 11 PM. It happens a few times to a dozen times per night. One popping sound at a time. It is scaring my dog crazy. Is this temperature/contraction related? Our central air turns from 68 degrees to 63ish at night.

I had a new real wood floor installed in my living room which abuts the hallway, which already had wood flooring. It is a close match but there are maybe 25 to 30 slats in the new floor that are of a darker shade than any slat on the old floor. Only the first coat of poly has been applied. Is there any way to get the darker slats lighter and to blend more with the floor that was already there?

We are building a new home. It is pier and beam construction. Our cherry floors were installed in Nov. and then covered with cardboard to protect them until finishing them, last month. Uncovering revealed severe cupping and the wood was above 10% moisture and could not be finished. The flooring company suggested running heaters, which was done for 2 weeks with little result. When the contractor got the central heat running the floors began to dry out but then actually increased in moisture again. There is no water in the house or under the house. We had a lot of rain and cold in Dec. and Jan. and they are telling us this is a normal thing and the floors will be fine once dry and finished. What do you think?

I have a hard maple wood floor that’s 80 years old. The boards are 1 1/2″ wide and have shrunk from 1/32″ to 1/4″ inch. Is their a way to fill the cracks? Will it look natural when finished?

My entire home is hardwood. On the first floor the floors are in poor shape due to all the traffic over the years, but this doesn’t concern me too much. My main concern is that my house is over 100 years old and mostly every floor is sagging and not level. Is there a way to shore them and re-level them from the cellar before we refinish them?

We have some kind of glue residue from a carpet tape (used to keep our oriental carpet in place). How can we safely remove this from the floor without damaging the wood?

I plan on having 3/4″ wood (oak?) floors refinished, probably with 3 coats of water based poly. Some of these rooms will be used as video editing suites and will house tall equipment racks on casters with a moderately heavy load. The nominal dimensions of the racks are 21″ x 30″ x 7′ tall, each weighing between 150-250 lbs.

I want my five units to be lightly buffed and recoated. The floors are very bad. I can not afford to replace them. How would the scratches look after screening and recoating with oil poly?

We’re putting an oak floor down, in our kitchen. Do we run the planks the same direction as our living room?