WoodFlooringGuy.com

We built a new home last year and installed S******* engineered wood floors throughout most of the downstairs. Even though we keep our dog’s claws clipped, we still have lots of scratches. The finish is aluminum oxide. I’ve tried the standard scratch repair kits (filler, crayon type fillers, etc.) and it does nothing. I’m trying to contact the manufacturer but do you have any ideas? Can the floors be sanded and refinished?

On replacing solid slab (oak) treads over existing pine (construction grade) treads to the basement, I wanted to match the look of our upstairs (oak treads) added over the original treads. Judging by the previous work, it doesn’t look like they cut back the previous bull nose or rounded front edge and just shimmed-out the risers. I guess my question is, do you always need to cut back the original overhang nose? Is that still true if the tread is rabbeted or recessed into the end stringers?

I was considering putting wood flooring in my home, my question is: What type of wood flooring is best for dogs to walk on and not damage? I have a Bulldog to two German Shepards who all seem to nail-walk on the tile floors.

However, the problem is, the finish is “chipping” off. There are scratches, yes, but they just look like regular scratches, and then there are spots where the finish has chipped off, and the wood is the same pale color it was the day I put it in, instead of the dark orange I stained it. These are actually shaped like chips you would see in fingernail polish, etc. Unfortunately, they are all over the whole floor.

Our dogs and child have managed to thoroughly dent our 90 year old Swedish finished fir flooring. We are preparing to sand the floors in hopes to be able to at least minimize the dents. My question is what should we use to refinish that will 1) make less visible any remaining dents and 2) prevent further damage? (We are not set on Swedish Finish)

I am replacing the wood floors in our 45 yr old house. As I started to remove the old strips, I was surprised to find them spanning 1″ x 2″ strips of wood (16″ O.C.) rather than attached directly to the subfloor. I would remove the strips and attach to the plank subfloor, but then the floor would be 3/4″ lower than it is now. Can I reinstall the new floor to these strips or would I be better off removing everything and putting down a layer of plywood?

I have scratches, from moving furniture, on my wood floors. Without getting them refinished again, is there anything I can do to buff them out?

I installed a K****** laminate floor. There is a pretty nasty seam in the middle of the floor where the tongue and groove have pulled apart. The reason is that a slight dip in the cement floor that we considered insignificant during installation took a toll on that junction with all the traffic through the room. Is there a way to fix that seam without ripping up the entire floor?

Would you recommend installing hardwood over an existing parquet floor (thinking of pre-engineered or 3/4″), nailed down, or should I pull up the parquet first?

So, parquet flooring should come up before hardwood of any type, 3/4″ or engineered, goes down, nailed of course?

I have just completed installing pre-finished strip hardwood flooring and have lots left over. Can I use it for treads on my stairs? From looking around on the Internet it seems special treads that cover the entire width of the stairs are the norm. My stairs are 42″ wide stairs but the longest hardwood strip is about 30″ so there would have to be a joint. Do you see a problem with this approach other than the aesthetics? In addition, should I stain the nosing before or after installation.

I need to remove the tar paper and tar backing left behind while stripping my pine floors of years of layering from laminates. I believe this material was laid sometime in the 1940’s or 1950’s and it was adhered directly to the pine plank flooring. How do I remove this tar paper like material?

I am covering my stairs, which have existing plywood treads with 3′1/4″ x 3/4″ unfinished Quartersawn Red Oak. My questions are: what is the best way to finish this wood? and would it be advantageous to glue up pieces of wood to make stair treads before nailing them down, almost like a tabletop? I have the tools and equipment to do this and I assume it would give it more strength.

Is there a way to darken oak flooring that has been refinished, possibly a dark wax or a colored shellac? I would like to obtain a color similar to my fir doors and windows.

Do you have any idea how prevalent that practice of coating all slab areas under wood floors with a layer of tar was in Houston in the early 50s, as opposed to tar paper or just a strip under the runners?

I used a urethane maintenance coating for unwaxed floors. (A***** hardwood floor refinisher) It has made a horrible mess; peeling, flaking, etc. Can you help me with any suggestions of what I can do to remove it? Mineral spirits will remove it with lots of rubbing, but it would take me weeks of elbow grease to do by hand.

I just obtained some pre-finished samples to help me choose the species, color and finish of my new floor. I have a dog. I tried to see how resilient the flooring would be by scratching the samples with my thumbnail. None of the samples seem very resilient, but what really seems to scratch is the finish, not the wood, and this uses the aluminum oxide.

I am planning to install hardwood floors in my second floor. Currently it is carpeted. The stairs are oak with a carpet runner. The subfloor upstairs is plywood and the height matches the height of the stair nose at the top of the stairs. Once installed, the new hardwood floor would sit 3/4″ - 1″ above the existing stair nose at the top of the stairs. What options do I have to bridge this gap in floor height versus stair height?