WoodFlooringGuy.com

How can we determine if the floors of our old house can take another sanding? We have no area (i.e. heat register opening) to see the ends of the boards. They are tongue and groove red oak.

We have birch wood floors. They were given one coat of poly about 8 years ago. After 3 kids and 2 dogs running through the house, I’m cleaning them constantly with little success. I would like to sand them down, and refinish them. We have a very small house, children, and can’t think of a way to do this without moving out. Is there any alternative ways to refinishing wood flooring, which doesn’t require moving the kids out? They have a lot of gaps, and are very stained. Very little finish is left on them.

What can cause hardwood floors to buckle in some areas? No water or liquids have been left standing anywhere. The owner of the home is blaming my family and I, since they have occurred after we moved in.

I have a small dog that has left scratches on my hardwood floors in my foyer. I have butterscotch coloured hardwoods, but some of these scratches have left visible marks I suppose where the colouring has been stripped (the scratches are lighter than the floor as a whole). How would I fix this? Do I have to have my floors refinished, or is there a filler of some sort, or an easier way of fixing these scratches?

My hundred year old fir floors are worn through in many areas. The pros say they cannot be refinished. Can I paint them a dark expresso? If so, what paint should I use and what would be the process?

We have ***** hard wood flooring in our family room, dining room and entry hall. When the painter was finishing the front door and sprayed lacquered on it, a lot of it formed as a film on our hardwood flooring. He had it covered by the door about ten feet, but a good part of the rest of the floor got coated with the lacquer. We did not notice it for about three weeks later. How can it be removed?

We are having hardwoods installed in a few weeks and they plan to use quarter rounds between the baseboards and floors. Since we have 4 inch white baseboards I requested white quarter round mouldings. However, they acted like this was a rather strange request and had assumed that I would just want wood quarter rounds that matched the floors. Is it unusual to have white quarter rounds if the mouldings are white? Are there any problems I would need to worry about with white quarter rounds such as more chipping?

I recently bought a new house and have hardwood floors, three coats of polyurethane finish. There was some damage and the hardwood guy came back and had to do a repair and then recoated the whole floor again. There is now a white cloudy film in every single crack. Why would that happen?

My husband and I are having a debate as to whether or not we can varnish our oak hardwood floor one room at a time. I think it would be OK to do this, since each piece of wood would take the varnish differently. He says, that we have to do the whole place at once, so we are not left with lines where we stop and finish.

What is better - oiling or lacquering our existing oak floor which needs life put back into it? We want our floor to weather occasional water/food/wine spillage’s. New Quaker-style kitchen is going into the basement of our 1840’s London town house. We have an open plan kitchen/dining area.

I believe our wood is called K***** and it is in a redwood finish. It has a shiny finish which was beautiful when it was new. Well, 1 year later w/ 2 kids and 2 dogs, the floor always looks dirty. After it is mopped, you can see a film of the footprints and traffic just a day later. We have tried several products and I think we are making things worse. What do you recommend we do? Do I need a certain mop, floor cleaner, etc.? Are there any particular products you recommend?

I presently have a floating laminate floor installed on top of a engineered floor that is glued to a 3/4″ subfloor. I want to remove the laminate flooring and replace it with a 3/4″ hardwood floor. My question is- do I have to remove the glued down engineered floor or could I install the new hardwood floor on top of the engineered floor? If it is recommended to remove the glued down floor, what recommendations could you make in tips and techniques used to remove it?

I just purchased a condo with hardwood floors that were installed about 3 years ago. It is summer in Chicago and it is hot and humid. The central air has not been on in the condo so far this summer so I am assuming that the floor has expanded about as much as it is going to. I see cracks in between some of the planks and in some corners the quarter round moulding does not cover small holes in the floor. The cracks between the planks do not bother me aesthetically. I am wondering if it is OK to damp mop the floor the way it is? Or is too much moisture going to get underneath the planks because of the cracks and holes?

I want to install hardwood in a condo with concrete floors. Every large store I have gone to tells me it can’t be done, or rather, they will not do it - that I have to install re-engineered floors instead. They do not tell me why. I prefer hardwood floors and would like to know if there is a problem installing hardwood on a plywood sub-floor secured to the concrete.

While installing prefinished hardwood flooring (bellawood 3 1/4 x 3/4) we ended up with some crooked boards and seams too close together (and a subsequent ladder effect in trying to “straighten” things out). Should we try to remove and reinstall or use wood putty to fill gaps/disguise seams if possible? This misalignment is just on one end of the room and looks like it started about 1/2 way thru the installation.

We are installing wood flooring in our downstairs and we have a clumsy golden retriever. I have heard to go with natural (no stain) and a thicker than normal polyurethane. My wife, of course, wants darker-stained hardwood floors. To keep the floors looking their best with as little scratching and dents as possible, and without being overly obsessive, what would you recommend we go with? What should we ask the contractor for?

I just had my pre-finished red oak floor refinished with what should be the same color (gunstock) and 3 coats of oil-based poly. The wood grain is so much more noticeable than it was in pre-finished form, and I don’t like it as much. Will this difference fade some over time and will the ambering of the poly affect it? My installer says in 2-3 months the grain will not look as dark. Thank you for your response.

We recently moving into an old historic home. We placed felt protectors or coasters made to protect wood flooring on all of our furniture. I have discovered some dents in the wood when cleaning the floors. Is there a way to repair these places? We are renting and I am quite concerned about this!

We bought a house that had wood floors installed over a concrete floor base. The floor has several spots that squeak. How can I eliminate the squeaking?