Archive for August, 2006

Finish not drying

Wednesday, August 30th, 2006

My floor installer put a second coat of polyurethane, one month after the first coat. It has been almost 5 days and it has not dried yet. It seems that the very top layer is dry, but when you try to step on it or push with a finger, it feels like wax and makes imprints. It does not seem to get drier over the last 2 days. What”’’s the solution? Should I give it more time (and if yes, how much longer?) or will the floor need to be redone?

Cost of removing old floors

Wednesday, August 30th, 2006

I need to know the cost of removing hardwood floors- to keep from being ripped off.

Urine stains

Wednesday, August 30th, 2006

We have recently removed carpet from a house that I have lived in for 2 years. The carpet had been down for 10+ years and it was used by the previous owner”’’s dog as a bathroom. Under the carpet is hardwood, but is has urine stains. The carpet pad was stuck to the floor and some of the staples were rusted. Upon removing the pad and scrubbing the floor, there are light stains left by the mess. What do we need to do or use to restore the floor to the way it should be–pretty and unstained?

Sheen doesn’t match

Wednesday, August 30th, 2006

I have just had prefinished ******** 3/4 inch cinnamon maple hardwood installed in my living room. It is weaved into the existing floor where it meets the kitchen. The kitchen floors are the exact same product, but two years older. The stain color matches exactly, but the finish of the old floor is more shinny. Why is this and is there anything I can do to minimize the difference in sheen?

Wood flooring in a cabin in the mountains

Monday, August 28th, 2006

We are building a cabin in the mountains and I am looking at possibly installing in hardwood flooring. We will not be in the cabin during the winter and there will be no heat as we don’t have electricity. Would hardwood flooring work in a situation like this and if so, what type of wood?

1/4 Inch thick wood floors?

Monday, August 28th, 2006

I have a number of damaged areas in my 80 yr. old floor. I pulled up one board section and it is 1/4 inch thick. Can I get this material any more?

Is 3/4 plywood OK for 3/4 tongue and groove?

Monday, August 28th, 2006

I am planning to install 3/4 tongue and groove flooring over 2×6 floor joists on 15 inch centers. The room is 14 x 10 and I plan to use screws to hold the plywood down. This room is a small bedroom, should I use 1 1/8 instead or is 3/4 good enough? I plan to go over the plywood with carpet.

Protecting hardwood from dogs nails

Monday, August 28th, 2006

…We’d like to have our floors professionally stained and finished in a dark [ebony] stain. However, we have a golden retriever and a collie/spaniel cross. Is there a recommended finish that can protect them? Do you think this is a good idea? I don’t seem to see any damage to the current oak from the dogs nails but am concerned if we go darker. We are in the Ottawa area if you can also recommend a local contractor?

Cleaning waxed floors

Monday, August 28th, 2006

We recently removed 20-year-old carpet to reveal beautiful stained (and, we presume waxed) oak hardwood floors; however, the rubber padding imprints can be seen and the floor is extremely dirty. Some areas show wear more than others - i.e. stair treads and in areas in front of closets. My husband has started using Imperial Cleaner & Spot Remover (petroleum distillate) to clean the flooring, followed by Windex. Can you believe it? I think this is taking off the finish and have asked him to STOP until we really know how to go about this. We have checked into resanding the entire floor area and applying a polyurethane finish, but the salesman couldn’t believe what good condition our floors were in and said that it really wasn’t necessary at this time. How do we best clean the floors?

Sticky gunk

Monday, August 28th, 2006

We just started removing vinyl tiles from a gorgeous hard wood floor. The tiles were removed with a heat gun and a putty knife. The floor looks great underneath, but there is a film of adhesive on the floor and we don’t know how to remove it. The adhesive is REALLY sticky and if you walk across the floor and stop, you may not move again! We used mineral spirits to remove some, no luck. We also used lacquer thinner, this removed a little, but not all of the stickiness. Should we just continue with lacquer thinner over and over, or is there something that will dissolve or help to remove the stick without hurting the hard wood?

More Emailed Answers Recommending Bona Kemi Pacific

Wednesday, August 23rd, 2006

Re:spots on floors, with dog drool the suspect cause
Re:cleaning instructions for customer

Custom staircase

Wednesday, August 23rd, 2006

I am building a custom staircase, with 12″ Aluminum C-channel for stringers. I am looking for solid wood treads, around 2″ thick, by roughly 12″ wide, and 36″ long. Walnut, Oak, or light Cherry are valid wood options. Can you please tell me if you have anything along these lines?

Best brand of floating floors

Wednesday, August 23rd, 2006

Do you have a favourite brand of floating floors?

Rugs and floors and colours

Wednesday, August 23rd, 2006

We have bought a condo in downtown Toronto. Our engineered “*****” hardwood floors are various colours where area rugs have been previously placed. Would your refinishing process be able to be used on this type of hardwood floor? How much would it cost for a room approximately 10 feet wide by 20 feet long?

Refinishing an old 3/8 thick strip floor

Wednesday, August 23rd, 2006

We purchased a very old semi-detached home that was built in 1914. The living/dining room area is approximately 300 square feet. I love the colour of the hardwood (chestnut) and I think it is probably a very good quality hardwood, but its very marked up and there was a wall that was removed which has left it’s mark. The slats are long and skinny. Instead of replacing the hardwood floors (which is also an option) – how easily can old wood with lots of flaws be beautifully refinished?

DIY funky stain

Wednesday, August 23rd, 2006

I recently bought a house in severe need of full remodelling. We are to the point of redoing the hardwood floors. I want to stain the white oak to a dark mahogany colour. I want to put down a layer of polyurethane first to seal the wood and then go over it with a poly/stain mix, then more polyurethane. My idea on this is: If we ever want the light colour back, we can just sand down to the wood. My questions then are: Is this possible? And, if so can I mix the stain and polyurethane (in what percentages)?

Replacing furniture

Wednesday, August 23rd, 2006

How long must I wait before moving furniture back into a room after wood flooring has been installed on a cement foundation?

Smelly wood?

Wednesday, August 23rd, 2006

I’m perplexed by the smells inhabiting my house these days. It almost smells like something is “hot” in my house. My electrician assured me that all was well. So, my question is: could my hardwood floors give off a woody/hot smell given the high heat and humidity?

Scratches and laminate flooring

Wednesday, August 23rd, 2006

Is there anyway to remove scratches from laminate flooring?

Patched areas rippling

Wednesday, August 23rd, 2006

We finished an extensive renovation in March-06. The renovation included the re-patching of a few areas of hardwood flooring (in 3 separate areas). The entire flooring area was then sanded, stained and polyed. The patching and finishing originally looked beautiful. However, the areas that were patched are now rippling. The ripples are visible and can be felt when running your hand or foot over the area. The contractor did not do the hardwood work but subbed it out to a HW floor guy. The contractor looked at the work today. He is going to contact the sub to come see the work. Do you have any comments for me as to what might be occurring?