WoodFlooringGuy.com

I’ve got a 30 year old 2nd floor condo with a cement floor. We’re planning to install walnut floors over 900 sq ft. When we took up the carpet, we discovered that in some areas the cement is uneven. We’ve got three quotes from installers, but each uses a very different method. One says to lay down a whole new cement sub-floor (for $4k), then nail plywood into the new sub-floor and the hardwood on top. One says to float 5/8″ plywood one way and 3/8″ plywood the other way, then nail the walnut in. And one says to simply use a self-levelling compound in the uneven areas, then screw-in 3/4″ plywood, then lay the hardwood.

How do I remove spilled candle wax (oily) residue from hardwood floors?

Should I use a finish that has nanotechnology?

I’m installing 6″ red pine (unfinished) tongue and groove in my cottage and my installer is suggesting that he won’t need to sand the floor, prior to staining, if the boards are level. Is this true? What about milling marks on the boards etc.? We’d like the floor stained a medium to dark brown and have a low luster tung-oil looking finish AND I’d like a fast drying, low odour approach. Can the stain and oil finish be mixed together in one application?

Regarding urethane for hardwood floors, I just finished reading your oil vs. water text. I think I am partial to oil. I have new, beautiful, truly brown walnut flooring that I do not want to yellow. I cannot get my hands on the Circa 1850 Bowling Alley urethane. Do you think that the yellowing or amber-color that happens with oil-based is from the yellow in the wood? If so, I should be OK because this wood has no yellow in it. Or, do you think that the urethane itself is what ambers? If that’s the case I might have to go with the water-based, which I do not want to do.

I live in an high rise in downtown Toronto and want to retouch the hardwood floor in the living/dining area without having to sand. The landlord refused to stain it when I moved in and it was already looking dull. I’ve lived here five years and some areas are pretty worn. My son is allergic to dust and therefore, I can only have a couple of small area rugs. I pull them out when I have friends or children over. Otherwise, my floors are bare all the time.

I am getting a lot of different opinions on which is a better method to refinish my wood floor, water or oil based finish?

I have a new (and as yet unfinished) hardwood spiral stairs constructed of American White Ash and want to apply a durable finish that can be used on the whole stairs – treads, balusters and handrail. We have used a water based lacquer elsewhere on some white oak flooring but I am advised this will be more troublesome on stairs because of wear and difficulty of maintenance. I am being guided towards an oiled finish because it is easier to maintain – just apply some more – and because it is more non-slip. If this is the way to go, the question then is which one? For example, Liberon do Danish Oil, Tung Oil, Floor Sealer etc?. We want to achieve a pleasant sheen. Also, importantly, we want a light honey colouration to the end result to accentuate the delightful wood grain.

What is the best type of sander and what are the best grades of paper to use to sand pine stair treads before refinishing? How can I get right to the edges of the treads? Would a detail sander be useful for the last stage?

Is it possible to fill ¼” or less cracks in hardwood floor before sanding and finishing? For anyone who has carpet, linoleum, tile on their hardwood floors and are looking to remove it this is what we did. First we had to take off the very old 20+ year carpet and it’s pad which was falling apart. We first used a ice scraper. We also found a roofing shovel with ridged edges worked well for tough spots. After carpet was removed, we found old linoleum backing under that. So we scrapped some more. Finally went to the local Menards (Hardware center) and asked for some tile/glue remover in the carpet/tile department. We got a gallon which you mix with water, put on a small area at a time, leave on for hour or two, and it worked like a miracle. The linoleum backing and glue scraped right off. After you scrap it off, you use clean water and a rag to rub off any extra glue that is left. You are left with a beautifully clean hardwood floor that is ready to finish. Hope this helps some of you.

I have hardwood floors in my living and dining room. I have yet to figure out how to clean them. Just looking across the floor it looks fine, but if I sit down on the couch I can see spots all over the floor. Some are footprints but a lot are just circle spots all over. If I scrape them with my fingernail they come up but the floor is still cloudy. My floor has a shine and was installed after 2000. What would get the spots up? I have heard to use SOS pads, but I don’t want to harm my floor?

I am wondering about the long-term appearance of hardwood in a kitchen. We were at a home last night that had light-stained hardwood in the kitchen, and there was a lot of wear and tear on the busier areas of the kitchen (by the sink and fridge). I would like to do hardwood in my kitchen, but this made me question how long it would hold up to the regular busy-ness of a kitchen. Are there types of hardwood or stains that hold up better? Do I just need to prepare to re-finish in the kitchen every 5 years or something?

I am refinishing an oak parquet floor which I have already sanded. I would like to achieve a dark-espresso finish and I am unsure as to whether I should use oil or water based stain. Which coats should I sand in between? Can I leave windows open for ventilation or do I run the risk of dust causing an issue?

What is the best under padding out there for laminate flooring?

The next time you have a floor man over, smile, and shake his hand. Treat him as an equal being. Maybe even share some extra hospitality by providing caffeinated beverages or TimBits! Remember, the only thing a floorsander likes more than the odd treat is a pleasant, welcoming home owner!

I recently stained my floors in sections. Red oak floors with ****** Red oak stain. I applied with a sponge and blended with a china brush. I did NOT wipe it off. I can see the lap marks where the stain overlapped. I have not applied the poly yet. Is there a fix for this?

We had *****wood floors installed about 9-10 months ago, and have had lots of trouble with the finish: very dull, hazy finish that shows every foot print! I bought a floor kit and only used their cleaner as directed, when I called them for help they said I probably had a build-up and told me to use vinegar and water, which made them more hazy, so I called back and they actually told me to try a competitors product, so I bought ***** and used it, still no change in the hazy finish. We are now thinking of paying a lot of money to a “independent” floor consultant, provided by *****woods to come look at our floor. Is there a easier solutions to this?

I live in an OLD… 75 yrs. old farmhouse. I am tired of carpet in a 16×27 living room. We ripped it up and found wood floors with finish only around the perimeter of the room. I think previous owners must have varished around a large rug or carpet. The floor in the center looks unfinished, but water beads up on it.

I am installing some ¾” Pre-Finished Brazilian Cherry 3 ¼” flooring. I have been finding all kinds of “Back and Forth” on the web over what type of fasteners to utilize. Do I use a Cleat or do I use a Staple? Also, What type of Pneumatic Nailer have you found to be the best from your experience only.

I installed pre-finished floors in my kitchen, family room, and entry way about a year and a half ago. They were installed over plywood which was over concrete. There was a moisture barrier put down as well. I have been noticing cracks slowly forming on the wood boards, especially now as we are transitioning from winter into spring. It seems like the cracks start somewhere within the board and somehow get to the surface and bubble up the finish. The cracks go with the grain. In all your answers, you say that the cracks are due to lack of moisture. Could the cracks also be due to too much moisture? I bought a hygrometer and put it on the floor and the humidity in those rooms run between 55% and 65%. I think in your answers, you said the relative humidity in the air should be between 30% and 45%. I’m just not sure if I should add more moisture in the air or take out moisture.