WoodFlooringGuy.com

I am looking for floating floors for my basement. What is recommended for a basement?

I know I can find a 12 in. lambs wool applicator. What is the widest length that is usable, that can be purchased?

The problem I have is the room that I want to lay the hardwood down is long- about 40 feet and about 15 feet wide. The floor joist run parallel to the length of the room and I would like to lay the hardwood lengthways not perpendicular to the joist. I keep hearing that its better to lay the floor perpendicular across the floor joist to provide stability .Any suggestions for me so I can run the floor length wise on the room. Is it necessary to lay them perpendicular to the joist or can I get away and run them parallel to the floor joist?I have a 3/4 plywood subfloor.

Our installer did not clean the glue up off his knee pads/shoes as he installed. We have tried mineral spirits, lighter fluid. Any other ideas. It was a Bostik adhesive?

I am having multiple problems with my new hardwood floors. The floors are oak, natural poly finish. First off, My floors have scratched very easily despite waiting several weeks to walk on them, and using a vacuum made for hardwood floors. I have had other hardwood flooring installed in my home and never had this problem. I had them put another coat but this time there are the swirl marks everywhere as well as bubbles. There is also a bright yellow stain in the middle? It looks like it could be a stain under the finish. These floors are brand new. The company said they would come back again but they are stumped as to why the floors are scratching so easily and how to fix the swirl marks. It is a reputable company.

We recently had engineered wood floors installed and one of our wood-painted chairs has scuffed the floor with the paint from the chair (white paint on oak wood), do you know of a product we can use to remove this?

When a flooring company finished our Brazilian Walnut floors, they used a sandable wood filler in the hairline cracks that had appeared between the planks when the wood shrunk somewhat after installation. They filled the cracks several times with a sandable wood filler but after each sanding, some of the filler came out. After 3 coats of urethane we were left with thousands of pinholes which the urethane made really noticeable. It looked so bad, we had a second floor company start over. They sanded back to the bare wood, after another 3 weeks and 4 more coats of urethane we are left with the same problem. Each coat of urethane built up higher around the holes and made them stand out. We have lost weeks of construction time and thousands of dollars to the floor re-finishers. It looks so awful, we are considering using the walnut as sub-flooring and laying a prefinished floor over it. Could we use a floor putty to somehow plug the holes and THEN have another coat urethane applied over top? My husband thinks one or possibly 2 coats of urethane would level out over the holes if they are filled first. If its worth a try, should the floors be burnished first, then filled with putty? The color putty jar says to apply a coat of oil based urethane over the putty so I assume the dull waxy film left around the fill hole won’t cause a problem with the urethane adhering? Or do you fill first then burnish or fill and clean with a solvent?

We have a 70-year old house with beautiful pine floors desperately in need of refinishing. So far we’ve had 3 professionals in to give us estimates. We have 2 large dogs so of course, durability is our primary concern and we’re aware that we need to trim and file their nails. The first contractor recommended 3 coats of “high quality” water-based urethane with 1 coat of sealer underneath. The second contractor said 3 coats of oil-based polyurethane with no sealer under and the 3rd contractor said 1 coat of sealer under 2 coats of water-based urethane. We’re at a lost as to what to do and have 2 questions for you: 1) which is best for our situation: water-based or oil based polyurethane; and 2) do we need a sealer under the urethane?

I recently removed 30 year old carpet from hardwood floors. I discovered some spots that were dark black (I am guessing pet stains). I applied hydrogen peroxide to them and after a few treatments, the black stains lifted and the wood was left white. I chemically stripped a 3 X 1 rectangle around the white spots so that application of stain would be even and not spotty. My problem is that the white spots in the wood are now not taking the stain as dark as the chemically stripped areas. Is there anything I can do?

I bought a home in New Mexico (extremely dry climate) three years ago which had been completely renovated. The entire home had been installed with soft wood flooring. The subflooring I believe is wood with a crawl space under the house. I noticed this winter that the floor was severely cupping in certain areas (the onset of which appeared to be quite sudden).

Providing I cut back the flooring along the walls and address the moisture issue once I determine it (as you assumed the crawl space has a dirt surface and there was no intentional source built into the crawl space for cross ventilation from what I can determine) will the cupping that has already occurred level itself back out or will I have to level it manually (i.e.- sanding)?

I’m putting in a hickory floor that has lots of knots. I like the rustic look, but I also want to fill the knots. I was thinking epoxy. What about a trowel on filler? Hickory has such a wild variation in light & dark wood, I’m not sure what color filler I’d try to match.

I have decided to sand and stain my treads one colour and paint the stringers and risers white. The stringers and risers are natural coloured oak veneer and have clear urethane on them. How would I go about painting the stringers and risers?

Do I have to remove the transition piece between my carpet and linoleum, when I install my 3/4 flooring? If I do, will I have to put different tack strips in for my carpet to stay tight? I have nice hickory flooring with nice transitions but don’t know how to butt the carpet to the transition piece.