WoodFlooringGuy.com

We recently removed the carpeting on one of our circa 1970 open stair case treads to find a pine stair tread. We love the look of the wood but wonder if pine is a good material, it seems a bit soft for stairs. Each tread will need much refinishing due to staple and nail holes from the carpeting. Would it be a better idea to “wrap” each tread in a hardwood?

We want to put insulated batts between the joist under our crawl space. We have a vapour barrier down and vents on all sides for ventilation. Will this effect our hardwood floors? We find the floors very cold in the winter, what would be your solution?

All of the green building references I have found say that wood floors should be finished with a low VOC water-based polyurethane, but none of these articles provide recommendations for a brand. Is there a website which provides this information or can you provide the names of some products that are on the lower end of the VOC scale?

Can you tell me the difference between the ceramic coat and the aluminium oxide coat?

Our “Pergo-type” hardwood floors that have become dull and horribly scuff-marked over the past few years. I do dust mop them frequently, but the lustre and scuff marks need to go. I’ve tried and tried to find the best way to clean the area. I’ve thought about renting a buffing machine and using a low-grit pad to remove the scuff marks and polish them back to a nice shine…

I am installing a hard wood floor in our kitchen. We currently have a linoleum floor in the kitchen. Can I put the hardwood floor down right on top of that or do I have to rip up and remove the current kitchen floor?

We have oil based polyurethane hard wood floors I have a mid sized dog that has left fine marks from the pads of his feet. I’ve been told that nothing can be done.

On the second floor much of the hardwood floors are painted very bright and vibrant colors. It is expected below the layer of paint that the previous owners painted, is lead paint ( or the hardwood floors were painted with lead paint some years ago). So it seems the floors were painted a few times at least over the years. My wife and I really like the look of the original hardwood like is on the first floor. We would like to remove the paint from the second floor. What would be the best way to do it? Also our contractor said we could put a wood laminate over top of the painted hardwood floor to cover it.

We have rental property with stained hard wood floor found under a stained dirty carpet. What would be the most cost efficient solution for us to consider? I thought of staining the floor dark to try to hide the stains and adding a large area rug to room with a one and half foot allowance of wood floor showing. Not sure what to do. We don’t want the expense of wall to wall carpet.

I just bought a house with wall to wall carpet that must go. There is plywood subflooring underneath and I can’t afford to install hardwoods any time soon. Can I stain the subflooring?

Polyurethane will be the final step for the hardwood floors in the house. We would like to have the satin finish like we have in the condo presently. So, is the polyurethane semi gloss the same thing as the satin finish? If not what would you recommend for the polyurethane that would get us our satin finish?

My hardwood floors are coated with satin polyurethane. There was some latex paint on the surface and I used “Goof Off” paint remover to remove the paint. However, the areas I removed the paint are now a bit shiny and don’t blend in with the rest of the satin finish. Any suggestions on what to do to correct this?

What is the wax paper for and is it necessary for installing 3/4 ” thick hardwood? I’ve heard some people use the felt paper, any comments? Also, do you need to lay the plywood over newer homes 5/8″ O.S.B.if it’s fairly level?

I just had my hardwood floors redone professionally and the stain came out too light and too red (we did tests but for some reason the floor came out differently). Is there any way to darken the floors and/or get them to be a darker brown without totally redoing them?

Our house is only new-one and a half years. We just had the top coat of our wood floors sanded and refinished. After only one and a half months the floors are starting to peel. What could be causing this and how do we fix it?

I sanded my hardwood floors and refinished them with 2 coats of polyurethane. I applied the finish with a paint roller. The associate at the home centre told me what caused the air bubbles that I had after I put the first coat on. I resanded and applied 2 coats of finish. I didn’t realise there were teeny, tiny air bubbles in areas of the floor. This is a big room (22′ x 24′) and it is a little much to hand sand and I surely don’t want to have to use a floor sander again. Is there help for the air bubble problem that is not labour intensive for me? Someone told me to have the floor professionally buffed. Will this solve my problem?

We are currently remodelling our home and plan on putting wood flooring in both our master bath as well as our laundry room. I know wood floors are generally not recommended for these areas because of water, moisture, etc. However, we are unable to be perfectly happy with any other flooring. Is there any particular species that would be able to hold up better than the others? Also, we are planning on painting both floors? Any suggestions?

I just had new red oak floors installed. They were stained with a natural stain, and then the first coat of water-based urethane applied. When the floors were dry and we inspected them, we noticed an area where the nail holes have bled black, and the end seams are black as well. What causes this, and what is the fix? Does the entire floor need to be re-sanded?

We have recently done a DIY hardwood floor installation using a pre-finished birch product purchased from a major home improvement retailer. This material has micro-bevels, but we noticed during installation that it appears the finish which was applied to the top surface of the strips does not extend down the bevels, i.e.. the bevels are stained, but not actually finished. The result of this is that in all the bevels in the completed floor, we have exposed, unfinished wood, which is susceptible to absorbing liquids easily and could quickly ruin the floor - there are already a couple spots that have started to swell from spills. Of course, we could refinish the entire floor, but we were wondering if there was some way we might be able to seal the joints/bevels without resorting to a full refinish job?

How do I remove cheap, laminate, wood flooring from my foyer and hall way? It is glued down rather randomly throughout the space and is extremely difficult to tear out. Is their a product that will remove the glue and make this job a bit easier? The flooring is about a 13/8 inch thick, if that helps.