WoodFlooringGuy.com

Our problem is that when walking on the 2nd floor there is a loud popping or clicking (not really a creaking) which is audible on the main floor. While walking on it upstairs it is not very noticeable, but very noticeable downstairs.

I have some uneven gaps around the perimeter of my laminate flooring which I am installing myself. In some places, they are as big as 10 mm. Can I cover them with Quarter rounds?
Also, about the underlayment, should the underlayment run under the baseboards or should it be just under the laminates? Is it OK if some area along the perimeter (say about 5 mm) does not have an underlayment?

What is the best way to put the poly on your floors? I keep getting fish eyes w/ a poly roller. How do I get rid of them, and make the finish look good?

How do you apply your polyurethane? I know with a lambswool pad, but do you walk in one direction with the polyurethane or back and forth strokes?

Should I choose light color flooring or rich color flooring? Someone told me if you have dog, a rich color like cherry wood is not a good idea.

I would like to know how to repair a hardwood floor that has been damaged in places by termites. The floor is over 40 years old and was covered by carpet until recently. There are only a few boards that appear to be damaged. Can individual boards be removed and replaced?

We just purchased a home with hardwood floors throughout; however they all have dark brown stains. We do not know if it is from water damage or from pets; my husband think they are urine stains from the previous owners pets. We would love to keep the hardwood floors and are hoping that the stains can either be removed or be covered. Can you please tell us what we could do to save our floors? Can we stain them darker to hide the stains if we are unable to remove them?

I would like to know what steps to take to redo a 12 x 10 hard wood floor.

I have a hardwood floor that looks like a gym floor. It is maple. I would like to stain it darker, however I’ve been told that staining this maple floor won’t work and won’t turn out?

We recently were able to salvage 500/700 s/f of maple flooring from our local school that was being torn down to build a new one. The question is, is there a tool to remove the build up that accumulated between the joints in the floor. For the last 30 years the floor was covered by carpet. This stuff is like concrete. The floor was originally put down in the 1900′s. the boards are 13/16 thick and just under 2-3/4 wide. I would prefer not to have the T and G remilled, do they make a special scraper for T and G.

We recently had our pine hardwood floors sanded, stained, and poly’d. Along the perimeter of the walls (about 6 or 8″) or so, the stain is much lighter. There is a clearly seen demarcation. What is this due to? The contractor said it was from build up over the years of wax, etc. around the edges of the room. I was wondering if different sanding or staining techniques had caused this.

Is there any way to stop the creaking of our hardwood floor? It is beautiful but the noise is too much!

I bought what is considered an “exotic wood” prefinished 3″ Bolivian rosewood, a ***** product. How can I make my own transitions and specialty pieces such as the top stair. Can I make these myself from planks and refinish any sanded edges? I think if I have to buy them, they might be special order if at all, which might be time and lots of money.

We recently put in new engineered oak flooring (5″planks) over a concrete slab and I have found a small area that doesn’t appear to have gotten a tight bond with the adhesive. Is there a way to repair this without pulling up large sections of the floor? Are there methods to get more adhesive under the planks in the problem area and then weighing down the area until it bonds and cures?

I lifted up the doormat to vacuum clean any dust and grit underneath to find a three inch damage, looks like someone’s heels have been dragged across it and took a shaving off the solid oak floor, we are not sure if it was there already or our fault, but how do you repair damage like that without having to replace the whole board/floor?

If you do have just another moment, I would also really appreciate knowing if the 1.5 – 2.0 inches around the walls (I’ve taken the baseboards off) should be as smooth as the rest of the floor. (I know 3/4″ will be covered by baseboard) My edges are quite rough and nothing like the smooth pieces in the middle of the room.

We are building a new house. I love the look of hardwood and would love to have it in the kitchen. The problem is we have three children and I’m afraid it won’t hold up in the kitchen area. I’m also concerned about water damage. At this point I have requested ceramic tile in the kitchen but really want hardwood. The hang ups I have are durability and water damage???….. Help! What’s your opinion?

We have prefinished maple flooring installed in kitchen, living room/dinning room, master bedroom and down the stairs.
My question is the groove “v” in the boards end and sides are dirty and we wondered how or what we can do to clean this we have tried a small brush but still there. This is most noticeable in the kitchen.
We have always used a wood cleaner recommended by our flooring dealer vacuum and dust mop once a week and damp mop with this cleaner once or more often depending on usage. There are only two adults and two cats in house so very little traffic.

I laid a oak tongue and groove floor in winter on two layers of plywood. The humidity in the rooms was a bit low but last summer, when the humidity increased the flooring buckled up. Can this be because I didn’t leave enough gaps in-between the plywood sheeting underneath. What can you suggest?

How does prefinished hardwood compare with on-site finished hardwood in terms of: -quality of finish?