WoodFlooringGuy.com

How do I revive the shine to my no wax wood floors? The floor in front of my bay window has faded. How can I bring the shine back? At one time I think I used some ammonia on the floors. Could this have caused the shine to become dull? If so, how can I correct this?

I am an architect and I’ve been having some questions on how to finish a floor with an ebony or black finish. We have a 3/4″ thick, 3 1/4″ wide solid oak floor and would like an ebony finish. What the best way was to achieve a good looking durable finish?

I recently built a house in the Northeast and installed 11 inch wide T&G pine floors. Since then many of the boards have cracked along the board. I am not talking about gaps between boards, although we have many of those some even bigger than 1/4 in. Many of the cracks seem to be more closer to the edges than down the middle, although again a few have cracked down the middle. My contractor says this is normal with such wide boards but I can’t imagine that that is so. The boards were installed in the winter and were face nailed in the summer with no AC on in the house until long after the boards had been laid. Please give me some advice as to what you think the cause is and if this is to be expected.

How do I take care of my floor?

I recently pulled the old carpet off from our stairs and pulled off all of the carpet tack strips that were on the treads and risers only to find lots of nail holes and scratches!! What is the best way to fix this problem to make them look like the rest of the oak hardwood in our house?

I have 2 questions. 1st) The hardwood floors in my home are 37 years old. The downstairs have been sanded and refinished with 3 coats of poly urethane. They are now starting to show some scratches. How do I remedy? 2nd) The upstairs have never had anything done to them, except waxed about 20 years ago. They are in need of some work but not enough to sand and refinish. What do you recommend?

I recently removed my living room carpeting, as it was filled with pet stains. The hardwood floor underneath was for the most part in good shape. There are a few areas where the finish has come off the hardwood floor. The floor boards are in great shape, no warping and the floor cleaned up nicely. However I want to know if I can just refinish these areas of the floor if there are no deep stains or smells. Can I re-stain these areas of the floor without having to refinish the entire floor?

We think we want wide plank flooring w/o a polyurethane finish – a manufacturer has recommended sealing with tongue oil after staining. Is this acceptable?

We have just bought an old house. When we removed the carpeting we discovered hardwood floors. However, each three foot strip of wood had at least three nails in them with heads, which means that we cannot sink the heads into the floor. We will have to remove all the nails, renail the floor with the correct hardwood floor nails, fill in the holes and then refinish the floors. my question is: Can we do the above (pls. suggest the right tool to remove the nails) and get the floors to look decent?

What type of glue do you recommend using on stair nosing?

We are installing utility grade oak hardwood flooring. We like the look of the large knot holes and other flaws in the wood. My questions is how to fill these holes before finishing? We are planning on finishing with a water based polyurethane (no Stain). I was wondering if there is a clear epoxy that I could use to fill the holes which could then be sanded with the rest of the floor before finishing. A builder told me to take the sawdust from sanding and use the polyurethane to form a paste to fill the holes prior to finishing. What would work the best?

I am removing tile that was placed over hardwood in our home. It pries up very easily, however, the tile glue residue is still all over the hardwood floors. The floor seems fine underneath, I just have to get the thin, blotchy layer of glue off. Is there ANY way I can do this without having to sand it off?

Nice site, very informative. I run a small hardwood floor company out of North Carolina in the U.S. I am recently on my own but have been in the business for 15 years. I have purchased a ****** belt sander which runs great but severely digs out the soft grain in the wood, especially red oak, resulting in a rippling effect across the whole floor. Cutting on an angle has no effect and the waves get worse with each successive pass. I have had the machine serviced several times and they can find nothing wrong, also replaced belts, bearings, roller arm, etc.The Waves are not really visible on bare wood but come out when finish or stain is applied and under low angled lighting. I have been able to lesson the problem significantly by using a buffer with a hard plate , followed by screening. This process produces good results but the hard plating ads significant time to the job. any suggestions on this problem would be greatly appreciated as I am some what fanatical about doing a high quality job and although no one else seems to notice these imperfections, I do and it`s driving me up a wall…

I have a design question. We would like to change our living room and dining room floors from carpet to hardwood. The problem we have is that both rooms are an open concept and form an “L” shape. We are not sure how to lay the hardwood to obtain a nice look. If we lay the hardwood length wise in the dining room, the living room pieces will be very short and vice versa.

We are ready to lay in a new entry way-kitchen-dining room wood floor. Today we were told not to go with unfinished maple because it can not be stained due to it being closed (close?) grain. What hardwood floors, other than oak, can we substitute for maple. We do not want a dark wood. We would like to stain and finish after the cabinets have been installed. We are going with the stain and finish floor because our builder told us you cannot repair prefinished flooring without seeing the repair. Correct?

We just pulled up our carpet, and there are severe (water) black spots.

I am a builder. Once the (Red Oak) hardwood floors in the house were sanded for the third time we put down flooring paper with 3m blue painters tape to protect the floors. Once we lifted the tape and the flooring paper, we noticed lines from the glue on the tape. Is it possible to get these lines up or do we need to buff and recoat the floors?

We bought a house that has glue down hardwood floors, but I would prefer the handscraped look. Can we do this ourselves and how?

We want to replace our carpeted floors with hardwood floors. We have two large dogs and two cats. Which type of flooring would be best with this many pets? Thanks in advance for your help! We want to make sure that whatever floor we choose (hardwood, engineered, laminate) will withstand many pet feet and the occasional pet stain without becoming too scratched, dingy or stained.

We installed floating engineered floor [click in system] all over the house last spring. In winter time some parts of the floor squeak. After stepping on them few times just went away but then come back again. It’s a new product we bought from store.